Thanks for the dizzy help. Starts, runs smoothly, accel good. Then, up and dies and won't restart until it feels like it. Fuel pump issues? Turn key on w/ pump wire plug-in disconnected, then connect and there is no sound or priming. Is there another sensor that may be turning off the fuel supply? Could temp sensor do that? As you see in the pic, fuel pump "it don't look so good". Did fuel filter previously. The truck has been sitting 4-5 yrs, so fuel issues predicted.

 

crank position sensor

 

the pump only primes for a few seconds when the key is turned to the second"on "position...leave it plugged in and have some one turn the key on for you just to check....unscrew the ring and remove the pump you should be able to put 12 volts to the pump wires to see if it will work at all....that connector in your first photo is a short harness that goes over to the top of the drivers side framerail....that connector / harness can corrode and be at fault.......I assume you have checked the fuses first ?

(94-95 distributor ignition Rovers dont have a crank sensor)

 

No kidding? I thought it was only the RRC that didn't my mistake

 

There's also a relay on the passenger side footwell that energizes the pump. I think it's one of the metal bosch relays.

 

Paul is right check the fuel pump relay it normally has a metal case, most I've seen lately are plastic ( Bosch/ Rover#: AFU2913L ) and plugs into a BLUE BASE.

The sensor in your pic is PRC3505 and it controls the electric fans when the AC is turned on. It has nothing to do with fuel. The green corrosion you see on the sensor is on the brass body.

 

Sure is a challenge trying to unwind what's been done and not done by PO and their "mechanics". Re sensor in pic-- cleaned and now fans come on! Some more discovered info to digest: hidden away under the bottle jack is a three outlets feels like a vacuum control device. One hose in (connected) and two out? One out has nothing attached, the other was split-- and its other end is disconnected near brake booster. Also stub of a hose coming through the firewall near it. No line connected to cruise control, too. Re: have been able to get it restarted after cranking over 3-5 seconds. Getting better, still not going beyond the parking lot tho. Re: immobilizer etc. Was never given the fob, only 1 key. Could immobilizer be part of problem? Is up switch under the hood an issue and can it be removed? Checked fuel at rail schrader (sp) valve-- good squirt there.

 

The immoblizer is the black box under the glove box. There is a sticky for how to bypass it if you feel that is your problem. As far as the cruise control is concerned, I wouldn't worry about it right now. My bet is you could put everything in place and replace every vacuum line and you'd find that the cruise control ecu is fried. It's really common. There's also a sticky for using the cruise control ecu from a DII. It's a pain but if you really want cruise control it's you're best bet.

 

Old school here and no need. What is that 'thing' and do I have an open vacuum circuit that I should plug off? Its hard to see, going by feel via that hole under the jack.

 

Don't worry about it. The part you feel under the jack is the vacuum pump for the cruise control circuit. It's a closed loop so don't worry about an open nipple without a hose attached it won't affect your engine vacuum.