After getting marvelously high prices on this job I decided to DIY since I get parts cheap from my former employer I thought what the heck. I am explaining things simply as even though lots know all this, it's to help the newbie.

First I used a turkey baster and removed as much fluid from the brake fluid reservoir as I could, then filled with new DOT 4 fluid, cover with a rag or something, as I started working it got windy and didn't want to get anything in there.

The stock jack seemed to work well but the stock tire iron is trash. Went out and bought a new breaker bar and impact hammer 27mm deep socket. What was near impossible on the first wheel turned into a joy and only about $15 bucks.
Started on the right front, then left front, right rear and finally left rear. Remember to loosen the lug nuts first before jacking it up, I used a jack stand under the axle as a safety device.

While I had the right rear off it was time to do the fuel filter.This was a mess I was not well prepared for. I found the 15 amp fuel pump fuse under the hood and pulled it, ran the engine till it died. I had read on a forum here to try and loosen the hose on the end, if it wont go then buy a kit and cut it off. Lucky mine did come off just fine but gas was leaking all over and would not stop, I am guessing from the tank, I should have been prepared and had a rubber band and plastic to cover it. Did have an old shirt I used for a rag so put that under and it helped with the bouncing gas drips.

The rear brake caliper bleed was very rusty (will order new ones and replace), I had to clean it out since the fluid can't flow so you do get moisture in those likes and after loosing my brakes coming down Pikes Peak it was scary, glad I remembered to use the E-brake.
I also wrapped each one with thread seal tape #1 don't cover the little drain hole in the side, #2 wrap in the right direction so that the end of the tape is facing the opposite way you would tighten the bleed screw.

I bought a pressure bleed system from Harbour Freight about $30 I think and it worked well, I put it in this little trash holder so that it would not fall over and let the fluid run into the pump and ruin it and it wouldn't fall over and leak.

Just pump the handle till you get 10-15 pounds then loosen the bleed screw, I would watch the fluid in a small loop in the clear tube I made so that I could see the color change better.

 

Though its more expensive than a vacuum bleeder, I highly suggest a Motive Products pressure bleeder for Euro vehicles. I think I paid $60 for it. Its wonderful for this job. I did a master cylinder and 2 quart flush on my D1. Didn't have to bench bleed the master and the bleed process was about 15 minutes. Just pump the tank, crank the bleeder and crack a beer while you just stand there and watch your fluid become crystal clear.

 

Thanks, I will have to check that out

 

Got some VGX pads semi metallic to give them a try since I got them free, also replacing the hardware since it's rusted and probably why the pad was broke anyway.

I am not going to replace the rotors yet, just swap in new brake pads and hardware, I want to do the rotors and wheel bearings later this winter/spring. The company I used to work for got in some new rotors that are drilled and slotted, might try them out and see how they perform, maybe they will shave the pads and keep the brakes working better.

The pads had a sensor wire but I cut it off since the stock ones didn't.
So far it's getting better and better, can't wait to do the fronts today.
Will update on the performance of the VGX pads and dusting etc.