I'm looking at a 1998 Disco with 185K miles and want to know what are any potential big issues that could come up? Looking from this thread https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...scovery-21328/, it has none of the common DI issues. Sunroofs work and don't leak, power windows/doors/seats work, A/C/Heat works great, no flashing lights, CDL works fine, seats and interior is really good for a 20yr old. It has aftermarket bumpers, almost new wheels, and asking $3200.

It seems like the DII's are plagued with a lot more major issues (oil or head gaskets). Is the original Disco less prone to any major (i.e. expensive) work as long as it's kept up with regular maintenance? Supposedly around 25K miles ago it had most of the fluids replaced. My hope is that I can pick up this, or another for a similar price, and get a few more years and ~20K miles out of it without having to constantly worry about it overheating and blowing the head gaskets like an '04 or something like that.

 

With 185k on the clock the biggest single item to consider is the head gasket. Most have been re-done by that age/mileage. If not, you need to know that it could happen at any time. Of course that is true for any of us.

The other semi expensive items are the front swivel *****. If they are pitted and leaking they need to be replaced and at that point you'll want to re-build them. That'll run $300-400 for both by the time you are done buying all the bits inside (pins, seals, etc).

Then there is the ABS. Not many sensors are still alive at that age. Maybe the fuse has been pulled along with the light on the dash. Does it illuminate on startup and extinguish after the car hits 5mph?

Does is overheat? Can you idle in 95 degree weather with the A/C on and not overheat?

And finally, RUST. Check the bottom of the B pillar and the C pillar where it hits the rear wheel well. Also check under the carpet in the cargo area.

I'm a broken record on this but I'd get a live data OBD reader to see fuel trim, temp, and O2 sensor readings.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...02/#post581013

If you're handy you'll be able to solve almost all these issue yourself. The workshop manuals can be found in the link in my signature.

Bottom line is that anything can go wrong in a 20 year old truck. If it looks well cared for and fluids have been replaced regularly that is as good as start as you'll find.

 

The swivel ***** should be a black color and be teflon coated instead of the earlier chrome ones. Much better to avoid the pitting and leaking.

If there is any rust underneath, take a good look at the brake lines just under the drivers door.If you are in an area that gets snow and they combat it with salt on the roads, it attacks the lines and they will rust and break.

You will get good at reading the wiring schematics as they all have wiring problems with that many years on them. Not hard, just takes some time.

 

Thank you! This is very helpful. Sounds like pretty regular stuff for most any car at 20 years old. I'm glad neither of you wrote something like "Every engine blows up at 190K, so watch out".

 

At least some teflon coated swivel ***** are grey. Mine are.

 

These trucks are quite easy to work on. Everything is pretty straight forward underneath. Interior is easy enough. Electrical is not bad, just makes me go once in a while.
It's a good truck to learn on. Especially the drive-train.
The only two parts that tend to cheese me off are the GEMs (Thank Zeus that robertf came up with that little adaptive reset program.) and the washer fluid bottle bolts. **** them bolts on that bottle.

 

Where are you in the PNW? If you want to come over and stick your head under the hood of my 95 and 97 D1’s you’re welcome.

 

The swivel ***** in my 99 are chrome. Maybe PO had em replaced and they used older model parts?

 

To answer the original question.... mines a 99 and I can tell you all of the following original parts have either been replaced or are overdue/imminent:

Damn near EVERYTHING related to the coolant system, brake calipers and master cylinder, intake manifold gaskets, head gaskets, ujoints, maf, power steering pump and hoses, ac compressor bearing, valve cover gaskets, exhaust from manifolds to tailpipe, fuel pump, had to have injectors sonic cleaned for parity, o2 sensors- all 4, transfer case inspection plate gasket, ignition coils, and now my rings are showing first sign of blow by and looks like I’ve got some big parts bills coming up to rebuild the axles and damn near all suspension.

Honestly it REALLY ALL depends on some luck, timing, and how much the PO took their maintenance seriously and kept up with crap as it started to go. At almost 200k, things will almost surely start to break as a result of age and wear and tear. That’s normal. Even a garage queen suffers a bit at 20 years old. Rubber, seals, etc dry out, metal rusts, wire coatings and connections brittle. It’s just the nature of any automobile.

I paid 2600 for my D1 about 3 years ago and it had about 140k then. I’m almost at 190k. It’s my DD and I have LOOOONNNNGGGGG term plans to keep her going. I’ve had no catastrophic disasters but many minor inconveniences that always seem to cost 2-300 dollars to remedy. Parts CAN be very difficult to find, even used. Some new parts just cannot be located no matter how much money you have. I’ve bought parts from Malaysia, Indonesia, Australia, the UK, Egypt, China, Spain, and probably two dozen us suppliers. But that’s cuz I demanded nos.

I know ive got some big money stuff coming up this year like an engine rebuild and axle and brake overhauls. If you’re buying it to get a couple years out of her you should be good. If you’re looking to make her new again I warn you it’s really hard. REALLY hard.

 

Have had my D1 for almost 5 years now, bought it not running for $600, pulled it home and a few weeks of electrical troubleshooting and lots of fun, I eventually went through the front axle including ball joints, swivel *****, cv joints, etc and still having fun driving it. Still a few minor things to work on but that is what makes it a challenge! list includes a\c stopped working, horn, off road lights, and still trying to get around to that pesky cruise control. No worries since it is 3 degrees outside....