1st D1 Break Down.
#1
1st D1 Break Down.
So I've officially had my first Rover break down issue after owning the vehicle for 2 weeks. It started to feel sluggish on highway and when I pulled up to work all the gauges stopped working even though engine was still on. My guess is that it is alternator. It started when I got out of work drove for about 3 miles and the gauges stopped working again. I was close enough to jog home take the battery out of my other car and swap it in. Truck started and drove fine the rest of way home.
I've been reading up and found that heat is an issue with alternators in our trucks, my question is are there better upgrades then new OEM quality or higher alternators for our trucks?
I've seen people recommending 95 RRC alternators, but read that is only for the 96+ D1. Suggestions and links for the part would be great.
I've been reading up and found that heat is an issue with alternators in our trucks, my question is are there better upgrades then new OEM quality or higher alternators for our trucks?
I've seen people recommending 95 RRC alternators, but read that is only for the 96+ D1. Suggestions and links for the part would be great.
#2
what year is your disco? usualy the tach stops working to indicate the alt stoped charging
I wish we could use something like an older chevy alt. since i am on 3 or 4 since I bought the truck bearings gone bad, brushed, armatures , case where bearing sits etc. either these are crap or I have got alot of bad rebuilds, current has lasted the longest think 6 months now
I wish we could use something like an older chevy alt. since i am on 3 or 4 since I bought the truck bearings gone bad, brushed, armatures , case where bearing sits etc. either these are crap or I have got alot of bad rebuilds, current has lasted the longest think 6 months now
#3
If you have an autozone or oriley near, they offer lifetime warranty on the alt.
Its an easy part to replace, plus you won't have to wait for it to be shipped if you buy it from an online dealer.
I got one wet and it did what your truck did, took it back(didn't tell them it got wet) and got a new one.
Its an easy part to replace, plus you won't have to wait for it to be shipped if you buy it from an online dealer.
I got one wet and it did what your truck did, took it back(didn't tell them it got wet) and got a new one.
#4
No easy swap to non-Rover model. Buy from chain store with lifetime warranty and keep receipt copy with truck always. Failure rate seem to be high as the rebuilders use parts from China (we don't mind borrowing their money...). I bought one and had it fail within a month, replacement has lasted so far. Re-build at local alternator shop would be better. Boneyard and dismantlers are alwasy an option.
If your truck has an OBDII port for code reader / scanner the Ultra Gauge can display volts.
As for heat, putting in a 180F thermosat will drop that some. The cowl that surrounds the fan has to be in place, it directs a blast of air into the alternator.
If your truck has an OBDII port for code reader / scanner the Ultra Gauge can display volts.
As for heat, putting in a 180F thermosat will drop that some. The cowl that surrounds the fan has to be in place, it directs a blast of air into the alternator.
#6
If it will mount, and has a big nut for + battery power, and a smaller one for exciter voltage from the check battery light, and a plug in "flying lead" for the tachometer. You'ld want to look at them side by side.
The reason people go with the Rangie alternator is to get a few extra amps. A stock 97 is 100 amp, mine draws about 85 amps witheverything on you can switch on. Add a bunch of new lights and you'll need extra amps.
The reason people go with the Rangie alternator is to get a few extra amps. A stock 97 is 100 amp, mine draws about 85 amps witheverything on you can switch on. Add a bunch of new lights and you'll need extra amps.
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