Guys,

I am trying to remove the existing 3 bolt flange to install a new 4 bolt flange and 98 DI rear d/s.

3-Bolt Flange Removal

Was attempting to do this and the bolt sheared. Any recommendations.

Should I focus on the centering pin or can I just beat the 3 bolt flange off of the rear diff?

Very frustrating item to remove.

Those that have done it, what did you do to get it off?

 

Hmmm...sounds like maybe you didn't get the centering pin hot enough to break the loctite bond. It needs to be about 500 degrees.
I've used the bolt/socket method as described.

 

I very well may not have. So what would you suggest for the next approach. Drill it out, hammer the flange off, saw the centering pin or any other advice?

 

Anyone who has had to resort to other ways to remove the centering pin and 3 bolt flange, I would appreciate knowing just how you managed to do it.

 

did one for a mate of mine, i welded a bolt to the spigot and then got a bit of pipe and flat bar, basically made my own puller, then wound the nut onto the bolt and did it up tight, it then moved relativly easy, till then had welded steel to the spigot and beat the hell out of it with no success, as for melting loctite if you heat to far you will destroy the seal on the front of the diff housing,
generally if you heat loctite you get a "puff" smoke indicating melting loctite,
try not to over cook it!!



cheers

Pedro

 

Since I will be replacing the flange, seal, and doing away with the centering pin, is there another method I might employ?

I just wantto avoid damage to the mating splines if possible. To late for finesse.

Was considering bolting something to the existing flange to aid in jacking it off of there. Or wkacking it off. Or sawing it off. Lorena Bobbit come to mind?

Could I just keep drilling and maybe pry it loose somehow?

 

The locating pin has to be removed first in order to remove the flange. The flange is retained to the pinion by a locknut.
Were you able to drill out the bolt that snapped?

 

Don't need a boat relocated, but yes I did manage to get the broken one drilled out.

The only slide hammer I could find to rent was at Auto Zone, but it is a 5 pounder and the threaded shat is 5/8-18. I got it anyway, but doubt I will be able to use it as is. We next went to Harbor freight and got a 40 piece tap and die set. We figured we would try working our way up.

I got to find a chart showing the correct drill sizes for the taps.

May try the socket method again or rig something to try to use the hammer from the rental I got. Thirty dollar deposit, I get it back upon return.

I am easing my way into into avoid drastic overreaction to the obstacle. If All Else Fails may attack it with a grinder or cutting wheel as a last resort.

I am using the meditation technique and focusing on "Be One With The Centering Pin My Son".

 

Well after a long communion with MEANDEROVER, I carefully worked trhe diameter of the hole up to 1/4 inch. My 5/16 bit was not up to the task, so we went to Lowe's bought new grade 8 3/8 bolts and washers and a brand new super duper 2x 5/16 bit made for stainless and steel I Beams or so it claims. They didn't have a 5/16 size in a regular type bit, just the most expensive, but I need a 5/16 to tap for a 3/8 bolt according to all the charts I looked up on line. Barely beat their closing time by about 2 minutes, got rushed in my selection then had to stand behind some idiots who bought 8 hundred dollars wor. th of mirrors, rugs and other B/S because only 1 cashier was open. Those fools had three buggies full of junk, an older Bar Skank carrying her pekinese, 2 sleeping kids, a burned out looking dude and his baby girl and her new hubby with all their spiked faces.

Took about 20 minutes to get out of that zoo. So when I got home, I called it quits until tomorrow.

I got to finish drilling then tap the hole, find something to fit better over the existing flange but making sure the pin O.D. clears completely. I think that was a ption of my problem on the firstattempt when I broke the bolt.

I think the socket I was using didn't quite clear the larger diameter of the damn pin. This time I may resort to making a block and cut a largerer hole with a hole saw, since I cannot seem to find the corrrect size socket here. I figure a scrap of 2 by 8 or 10 with a clearance hole will work ok.

I'll see.

 

If you're using the socket method you might want to go ahead and get a 36mm as mentioned in the document.
If I recall correctly that's the size for the radius arm to chassis nuts. For when you do your suspension bushings.