5 speed standard tranny broke
#1
09-19-2018, 11:55 AM
5 speed standard tranny broke
I have a 1994 Discovery 1, with the 5-speed standard transmission. Something inside the transmission broke. I think it was a syncronizer. I can shift still but I don't have syncronized shifts on 2nd gear, and sometimes the tranny won't go into any gear. I need to have this either rebuilt or exchanged for a good used tranny. I know the 5-speed was rather rare here in the USA, as most were sold with the automatic. Are parts available for rebuild? Is there a source for a good salvage transmission? I don't have the mechanical skills to drop the tranny, so I will have to rely on a shop. I can do light mechanical work only. Any help or advice would be appreciated. I am located in Arkansas.
#2
09-19-2018, 12:18 PM
TReK
Used units and rebuild kits can be found. All depends on your capacity.
Being in AR I would call Trevor at RovahFarm to see what he may know about the local availability.
https://www.rovahfarm.com/ordering.htm
Being in AR I would call Trevor at RovahFarm to see what he may know about the local availability.
https://www.rovahfarm.com/ordering.htm
#4
09-19-2018, 07:36 PM
Paying someone to rebuild your current R380 in the states probably isn't worth it. I looked into having Rob Dassler(a well known Rover guy that specializes in trans) rebuild mine. It was cheaper to get a rebuilt unit brought in from Ashcroft. There's nothing too complicated about replacing the trans. The hard part is getting the transfercase out and back in, it weighs a ton!
#5
09-19-2018, 07:52 PM
Are you able to drive it if you can nail the shifts? Can you double clutch?
Second Fish's recommend, Ashcroft units are available and they can be shipped over here for a good price considering their availability. Rovers North also has a few units from time to time in stock. I had an ashcroft put in one of mine. It is a huge pain as he says to install.
For the time being get some really good MTF94, Redline MTL, or ATF in a pinch and change it more regularly, try to baby it. Pretty easy to drain and refill these. Run it until it completely fails or until you can get a replacement. Redline MTL will keep it going for a while.
Second Fish's recommend, Ashcroft units are available and they can be shipped over here for a good price considering their availability. Rovers North also has a few units from time to time in stock. I had an ashcroft put in one of mine. It is a huge pain as he says to install.
For the time being get some really good MTF94, Redline MTL, or ATF in a pinch and change it more regularly, try to baby it. Pretty easy to drain and refill these. Run it until it completely fails or until you can get a replacement. Redline MTL will keep it going for a while.
#6
09-20-2018, 10:36 AM
Are you able to drive it if you can nail the shifts? Can you double clutch?
Second Fish's recommend, Ashcroft units are available and they can be shipped over here for a good price considering their availability. Rovers North also has a few units from time to time in stock. I had an ashcroft put in one of mine. It is a huge pain as he says to install.
For the time being get some really good MTF94, Redline MTL, or ATF in a pinch and change it more regularly, try to baby it. Pretty easy to drain and refill these. Run it until it completely fails or until you can get a replacement. Redline MTL will keep it going for a while.
Second Fish's recommend, Ashcroft units are available and they can be shipped over here for a good price considering their availability. Rovers North also has a few units from time to time in stock. I had an ashcroft put in one of mine. It is a huge pain as he says to install.
For the time being get some really good MTF94, Redline MTL, or ATF in a pinch and change it more regularly, try to baby it. Pretty easy to drain and refill these. Run it until it completely fails or until you can get a replacement. Redline MTL will keep it going for a while.
#7
09-27-2018, 10:07 PM
"The factory recommends ATF" The factory actually put out a TSB for the r380 updating away from ATF. Though the manual itself states so, this is no longer the current (18 years ago or so) thinking. I forget exactly what the exact recommendations by the factory were.... but everybody swears up and down that redline MTL is what to use. Ive not switched mine yet, but apparently it makes them shift like new. The defender people have talked about it at length online.
#8
10-02-2018, 01:42 PM
Winching
If I am reposting what someone else posted, i apologize.
Check the that guide the shifter above the transmission. It's a $20-$30 part (see Amazon link).
Mine broke previously, and was the culprit for what you are describing.
It was a simple fix, but just time consuming and accessible from inside the cabin once you remove the transmission cover / centre console.
Check the that guide the shifter above the transmission. It's a $20-$30 part (see Amazon link).
Mine broke previously, and was the culprit for what you are describing.
It was a simple fix, but just time consuming and accessible from inside the cabin once you remove the transmission cover / centre console.
Last edited by archaeology_student; 10-02-2018 at 01:44 PM.
#9
10-02-2018, 04:53 PM
Eh the fluid is really up to you. Here are a few notes
>LR factory first recommended and spec'd ATF III as the standard fluid for the box
>LR factory then switched from that spec to MTF94 as it provided a bit more possible wear protection
>Ashcroft recommended MTF94, MTL, and now recommend ATF III as being good for the box, they say something about all around use.
My experience is MTL has been very good at keeping older and worn boxes working well, and is especially good at higher temp or harder duty cycles. It does however make for stickier shifts before the car is warmed up in winter. ATF shifts better in colder conditions prior to warmup, very smooth.
I have ATF in the disco and MTL in the defender. Disco doesn't see much more than pulling a few things around the yard and highway miles to work, AND it has a trans cooler so I find ATF works well in that for now (also has a new trans). The defender has MTL in it just because it gets worked harder, longer, and hotter than the other car. It doesn't have a cooler and I have found it makes the transmission a bit smoother. For me it is worth it for wear protection at heavy use alone.
For the purposes of getting a few more miles or months out of a dying box, use MTL and maybe an additional friction modifier. I got about 8 months and 10k miles out of a screaming box using MTL instead of ATF. Change the fluid more often and you can get a little extra time to plan/save for a fix.
>LR factory first recommended and spec'd ATF III as the standard fluid for the box
>LR factory then switched from that spec to MTF94 as it provided a bit more possible wear protection
>Ashcroft recommended MTF94, MTL, and now recommend ATF III as being good for the box, they say something about all around use.
My experience is MTL has been very good at keeping older and worn boxes working well, and is especially good at higher temp or harder duty cycles. It does however make for stickier shifts before the car is warmed up in winter. ATF shifts better in colder conditions prior to warmup, very smooth.
I have ATF in the disco and MTL in the defender. Disco doesn't see much more than pulling a few things around the yard and highway miles to work, AND it has a trans cooler so I find ATF works well in that for now (also has a new trans). The defender has MTL in it just because it gets worked harder, longer, and hotter than the other car. It doesn't have a cooler and I have found it makes the transmission a bit smoother. For me it is worth it for wear protection at heavy use alone.
For the purposes of getting a few more miles or months out of a dying box, use MTL and maybe an additional friction modifier. I got about 8 months and 10k miles out of a screaming box using MTL instead of ATF. Change the fluid more often and you can get a little extra time to plan/save for a fix.
#10
10-02-2018, 05:24 PM
Winching
Eh the fluid is really up to you. Here are a few notes
>LR factory first recommended and spec'd ATF III as the standard fluid for the box
>LR factory then switched from that spec to MTF94 as it provided a bit more possible wear protection
>Ashcroft recommended MTF94, MTL, and now recommend ATF III as being good for the box, they say something about all around use.
My experience is MTL has been very good at keeping older and worn boxes working well, and is especially good at higher temp or harder duty cycles. It does however make for stickier shifts before the car is warmed up in winter. ATF shifts better in colder conditions prior to warmup, very smooth.
I have ATF in the disco and MTL in the defender. Disco doesn't see much more than pulling a few things around the yard and highway miles to work, AND it has a trans cooler so I find ATF works well in that for now (also has a new trans). The defender has MTL in it just because it gets worked harder, longer, and hotter than the other car. It doesn't have a cooler and I have found it makes the transmission a bit smoother. For me it is worth it for wear protection at heavy use alone.
For the purposes of getting a few more miles or months out of a dying box, use MTL and maybe an additional friction modifier. I got about 8 months and 10k miles out of a screaming box using MTL instead of ATF. Change the fluid more often and you can get a little extra time to plan/save for a fix.
>LR factory first recommended and spec'd ATF III as the standard fluid for the box
>LR factory then switched from that spec to MTF94 as it provided a bit more possible wear protection
>Ashcroft recommended MTF94, MTL, and now recommend ATF III as being good for the box, they say something about all around use.
My experience is MTL has been very good at keeping older and worn boxes working well, and is especially good at higher temp or harder duty cycles. It does however make for stickier shifts before the car is warmed up in winter. ATF shifts better in colder conditions prior to warmup, very smooth.
I have ATF in the disco and MTL in the defender. Disco doesn't see much more than pulling a few things around the yard and highway miles to work, AND it has a trans cooler so I find ATF works well in that for now (also has a new trans). The defender has MTL in it just because it gets worked harder, longer, and hotter than the other car. It doesn't have a cooler and I have found it makes the transmission a bit smoother. For me it is worth it for wear protection at heavy use alone.
For the purposes of getting a few more miles or months out of a dying box, use MTL and maybe an additional friction modifier. I got about 8 months and 10k miles out of a screaming box using MTL instead of ATF. Change the fluid more often and you can get a little extra time to plan/save for a fix.
I would cross reference any fluid to ensure it is safe for yellow/soft metals.
