A word of advice about the parts places you mentioned as your source for information and the people they have working behind the counter, they wouldn't know the difference between a Land Rover Discovery, Land Rover Series II or a Land Rover Series II if their life depended on it. All they know is what they see on the computer screen.

There are quite a number of parts Land Rover makes for Series I & II Discovery's that, while carrying different part numbers, are identical. Sometimes the change in part number reflects a change in vendor, sometimes it's changed simply due to a model change and, yes, sometimes it's changed because of an improvement or modification to the part. This last reason is why you're claiming Land Rover changed the part number for the Range Rover Classic, Series I Discovery and P38 Range Rover from RTC6061 to NAD101490. While I know that late RRC, most DI's and early P38's came with Magneti Marelli starters and most DII's and later P38's Bosch starters. I attribute the part number change to a change in vendor more so than a change in output for the starter.

Now, as I said in my first post, I could be wrong and DII and later P38 starters could be more powerful. I have never seen that claim before reading your post. That's not to say that I haven't heard preferences, one way or the other concerning Bosch and MM but those preferences seemed to be based more on reliability than power. As others in this thread have stated, there are more powerful alternatives but I'm not convinced that part for part, a DII starter is more powerful than one taken from a DI.
Cheers,
Paul

 

I wouldn't believe anything RockAuto says on their web site. They insisted NAS D90's were available with front disc brakes and rear drums.

Microcat does list Lucas as for the D1 and Bosch for the DII.
AC Delco's web site says 1.7kw for the D1 and 1.8kw for the DII. I doubt that 0.1kw makes much of difference, more would be Bosch vs Lucas.

That said, my starter of preference is still the Denso. The only thing that ever really goes bad in them are the solenoid contacts which are stupid easy to replace and cheap to carry a spare set.

 

An additional blade on solonoid can be enough to justify a desperate part number just fyi

 

That would fall in line with the third reason I mentioned for a change in a part number (improvement or modification). It still does not support the contention that NAD10149 is a more powerful starter motor that RRC6061.

 

I used the Britishstarter gear reduction too and it fires up instantly. It's stronger, lighter, and more durable than stock. I first tried a rebuilt one from the parts store and it only lasted about a year. So for a little more$ it's totally worth it

 

Like I said it's probably a newer part superseded the older RRC/D1 P/N's. I had found actual specs between the two starters, but I can not for the life of me find the breakdown specs anymore. The only difference seemed to be with solenoid itself (different amount of blade connections), and slightly higher amp motor.

I NEVER EVER ask any auto parts dude a question or do I bother calling them for anything. I do all my own research online and then go down to those stores with a P/N in hand. I DO NOT rely on them for anything. I own an 08 Hummer H3 Alpha (5.3L V8 vs 3.7L I5) and those idiots swear they never put a V8 in an H3, and that all the parts are the same..... I saved $$$ by doing my own research and finding out a 96-98 Ford Explorer with a 5.0L V8 or a Mercury Mountaineer with the 5.0L V8 used the same fan clutch as my Alpha, and that instead of a plastic fan blade it used a metal one. Ran down to my local pick n pull and grabbed a fan blade for 8.00 in mint condition vs 150.00 for the OEM plastic one from GM. Also the fan clutch was 30.00 online for a Ford Explorer V8 (Same exact unit) vs the same exact fan clutch (Same exact unit) that listed under a Hummer vs Ford cost 110.00. Last summer my Alpha was running 213-216F during the summer, and now with a Ford fan blade, and of coarse a new fan clutch I'm 197-206F.

I would never just pull something out of my butt. I am always trying to find ways to save $$$, and improve on the original design. Never intended on spreading false info. The UK website I read it on was like basically saying if "you own an older RRC/D1 grab a D2 starter as a free upgrade to smoother/faster starting". Then I went on to read people comparing the two, and talking about higher amp motors, but the laptop I had it bookmarked on took a crap. I know I had searched via google, then post from around 2008/2010.

The Bosch I pulled off my 98 looked identical to the one I pulled off my 04 so I doubt there is any major difference besides an improved design or more reliable unit. I was just passing on the info I had read on "Other" forums. If you have an older Land Rover save yourself some $$$ and get a unit from an 04 because thru normal auto part stores it's a 60.00 difference between a D1/D2 starter. Might be the same exact part, but you can save yourself some $$$.

I have no problem buying a part from AB or RN, but when I can find a part locally for less with a warranty that is good in any store across the US (if I break down) I'd rather have the option to remove it, replace it for free and go about my business vs order from AB or RN and wait a few days.

 

Personally, I experienced a similar fate with both a starter and an alternator from Advanced Auto. I'm not an advocate for buying rebuilt parts from places like that (Advanced, AutoZone, O'Reilly's, ect.). I much prefer to use a local auto electrical shop that does an amazing job rebuilding parts like alternators and starters.

------------

Getting back to the discussion about the relative strengths of DII starters vis a vie DI starters, I am still not convinced there is any real or noticeable difference beyond the fact that one is newer than the other. One stat, on one website, along with unsubstantiated comments on "other" discussion boards speak directly to what Antichrist said about Rock Auto and Defenders. Just because a website says one thing (or someone somewhere on some discussion board, for that matter) does not make it a fact. That's why I said I trust the information gleaned from places (and the people that work there) like Rovers North, Atlantic British and Lucky 8. I did not say that was where one must buy their Rover parts. Rather, that because they are Rover specialist part outlets, they will have a more intimate knowledge of the vehicles and their genuine parts.

I'm inclined to say that the reason you felt your DII starter performed better was related to it being, at the very least, several years newer with thousands of fewer starts. I'm glad that you got a starter for your DI that makes you feel better about how the truck performs. It's something we all want when we work on our trucks.
Cheers,
Paul

 

what you mention bout the fan clutch being more cause it is listed for a hummer i believe, in the past i had issues with this when buying parts for dads corvette, part could fit a camaro but listing says vette , price is more same part number , i am talkin 20 years ago but i am sure it still rings true on some things

now i am on my 3rd starter, when i swappd the last denso for a bosch there was a difference in cranking mostly cause the denso was wore out , alot of rebuilds ime are just junk thats wore out with new brushes and bearings , they dont care if it lasts 3 days or 3 years they got your money and when it goes bad you get another turd, they are not paying for labor to r&r it so no point in good quality control

 

I've never paid more than $30 for a used starter. I think I have 3 spares in my garage.

 

Yep used like salvage yard/pick n pull is like 25.00. I'm not a fan of a reburb from a major auto chain either "but" if it was to die on a trip swapping it out for another one is certainly faster vs AB/RN. Now if I broke down near a salvage yard with 25.00 ones that might work, but you're probably getting an old rusty untested unit and "could" break down 10ft down the road. The AutoZone one I have in the 04 D2 looks just as good as a AB/RN unit. Only time will tell, but knowing if it craps out any Auto Zone should have one is better than possibly ruining a vacation waiting on a part.