Beautiful as always bud.

The pump snout can be made nonslip at least three different ways off the top of my head and fuel line crimps keep extras from touching electrics.

Just passing it on.

 

Well for almost 2 weeks I've been starting...stopping....driving....parking....doing everything I can to duplicate the problem.

Of course I've been unsuccessful.

So tomorrow I will drive it to work for the fist time and see what happens. If it fails to start then the first thing I'll do is pull the video from the security cameras!

 

These are also spider symptoms..

When I was working on my alternator.. I re-connected the battery with the hood switch up.. Apparently a no-no... Switch is unplugged now..

This caused my imobilizer to kick in I believe.. Fuel pump wouldn't run. The next day it started...

But It might also have been a spider incident which is the immobilizer..Cold solder joints on the pc board cause it to go intermittent...

See where I'm going ? The immobilizer can keep the fuel pump from running or make it cut out.. Or just not allow the thing to start...

AND, My local LR dealer says there is no such thing as an EKA code on a North American Discovery 1. It's not part of the software here... And 1515 didn't do squat for me...

When I start on the interior of mine, I'm going in to disable that sucker..
I'm betting that's where you are ultimately going to find your problem too..

Good Luck

John

 

Well Wednesday I plan on opening up the dash and by-passing the immobilizer - and wiring in an aux input to the stereo while I'm there.

The new fuel pump is en-route thanks to eBay...fuel filter too.

I'm just not ready to spend the bucks on a fuel pump relay yet...

 

I have a similar problem but without the engine cutting out. Changing VSS didn't help. Follow this link.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...briefly-52854/

 

i had the same thing happen to me. the connections to the inertia switch under the hood passenger side firewall was complete burnt black. i couldn't find a wrecked disco and to find a replacement was next to impossible. so i cut it, striped it and just hard wired it. never had an issue since. now my fuel wont cut out when i get in an accident. i can live with that. also check the connections at the full pump in the back they get pretty dirty even though they are inside the truck.

 

Fine for temporary Scharfire, gets you by. Contact paulgrant@mac.com - he'll have an inertia switch and ask him if you can get a pigtail with connector. No excuses now. I aint preaching, I like extra crispy chicken.

 

Well it took me long enough - don't you just hate it when life gets in the way?

Replaced the fuel pump with one from eBay - I am so impressed with the product that I ordered 2 more at 17.00 a pop and they will go on the shelf in the garage.

A fifteen minute replacement. amazing. Replaced the pump in the 97' explorer at the same time, had to drop the tank - 3 hours!

Now to see if that fixed the problem. I messaged PAUL about a TPS but no word yet.

 

We had this exact problem with our 1997 DI.
Probably in 2000 or 2001.

solution was:

1) Replace speed sensor.
2) Replace both front O2 sensors - even though they were supposedly good.

Shop charged us $1,500 or so to figure this out with a code scanner way way back in 2001 or so.

That was at 80,000 miles or so.
Now at 167,000 miles still OK.
And, have put in new O2's to boot.

 

Clarificaiton
There are NO codes.
No CEL.

One needs to catch the speed sensor or O2 in the act with monitoring.
Just replace them.