Hope I'm not jinxing myself here...

Replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter...so far it running great. And I haven't experienced the slow down at highway speeds either.

Hopefully I have it this time - I never had time to dig into the spider system.

Now to attack the window regulators!

Oh - and one more thing...I stopped babying it. I keep it under 60mph and 2K rps, but I drive it like a truck! I think it likes it!

 

Put one of those spare pumps in the glove box. Sitting on a shelf in your garage is worthless if the truck dies while out of town, especially when you can swap it out and be running in 15 minutes.

 

Well its been a while time to update:

I replaced the fuel pump with the unit from eBay - and the polarity was reversed, I had to swap them. Not a problem since I was checking them anyways to a post here!

I still have the problem with rpm just dropping randomly and shutting the rover off. BUT the fuel pump problem has been fixed ( with a spare in the back ) .

Now to find the VSS connector and disconnect it!

 

It is back on the transfer case. But it drives the speedo and cruise. For testing you can drive around without and use a GPS for speed over ground. Or write down your rpms at various speeds and go by that. Don't want to get a holiday fast driving award if you pass by the donut shop....

 

Thanks SB, I only use the GPS for speed anyways - the android phone sits on the dash and blocks the speedo. RPM - that's another matter. In town I try to keep her under 2k!

It has been shutting down once or twice a trip - yesterday actually got SWMBO in it and went to the store. Shut down at least half a dozen times. Now she won't ride i it anymore!
Wait a minute.......

 

could also be crank position sensor starting to act up, but that usually requires cool down to reset. With the speedometer blocked, you might not have noticed if it quit working, etc. Here's pix of VSS location.

 

The car a 04 Land Rover Discovery, it had a after market remote start installed on it, a few weeks ago the viper start seem to upset the car and it went in to immobilization. You turn the key the starter clicks but does not turn over. Tried everything I have seen on the internet, called land rover explained my problem and the guy said it could be the immobilizer,a fuze, a sensor, bad control mod, lose wire or a number of things, said he would have to look at it, but the obvious problem the car wont start. I was able to fix the car by unhooking both battery cables, let it sit with no power for 60hrs, (i tried for 15min and a few hrs and it did NOT work). When you come back to the car after the 60hrs, put the key in the 2nd position and reconnect the battery cables(- Negative then + positive ) jump in close the door, turn the key to start the car from the 2nd position. It worked for me. I did not have to reprogram the key or anything, I think it just rest itself. Good Luck. When the immobilizer goes on, the computer is not getting the proper code from the factory key or the code got scrambled, or a after market alarm/remote start will inter fear with the stock alarm and cause it to lock down.

 

Wonder if shorting the cables once off the battery, or turning on a load, like head lights, would shorten that 60 hours. And you would want the hood switch depressed or unplugged when you powered back up.

 

Okay guys.

I am outside working on the rover.

I disassembled the dash and found that my 1996 disco does not have a spider. I don't know i want to be happy or sad...

I have taken all the earth grounds off and cleaned them and put them back on.

I disconnected the inertia switch and jumper-ed it temporarily...

I removed the fuel pump relay / ecu thing next to the washer bottle. cleaned all the contacts and put it back on the wall.

Now ii have the hood or bonnet switch disconnected...does it have to be jumper-ed or left open?

Next is the fuel pump harness connector in the rear fender well...

 

Okay - update

After examining the wires to the hood switch I deduced it was normally in the open position so I unhooked it and sealed/wired tied the connector.

Disconnected the fuel pump harness, cleaned them with contact cleaner, put them back together and wrapped the connections with electrical tape.

Disconnected the VSS sensor and start the rover.
Well it actually started! it had a rough idle and would just shut down. but would re-start immediately.

so it was not the vss.

while it was running i disconnected the sensor on the intake...CPS i believe? it didnt make any difference. it would start, high idle, then low idle, then get rough and shut down. but would always start right up..

so i used the contact cleaner on both the VSS and the CPS plugs and sensors and re-connected them.

after that it started, and idled just fine. but the engine was warmed up too.,,so i am taking a few hour break and then try it again...