Haha making good progress now! Got the front cover off. Timing chain is definitely loose. Removed sump and pickup too. Sump strangely had a small piece of park plug wire in it! Oil pickup screen only had a little debris. Pistons look simple to remove. Just waiting for buddy to get over here to help remove them. Then on to examine the pumps for wear.

 

Pics:

 

I like the black wrinkle finish on the exterior engine... oh, sorry..

 

BTW - you are at a point where lots of bolts start to look alike. Suggest careful inventory, poke in cardboard or lots of small bags with note card in each. Seem to remeber a post about putting locktite or star washer on oil pickup tube to keep it from getting loose. Is that rind inside around the oil pan mounting sludge - or Oklahoma grade RTV? Also, hope you have looked thru the overhaul section of the RAVE.

 

I've put all parts in labeled baggies so far. Do the bolts have to go back on the same connecting rod they came off or since they're all the same does it not matter? I would normally just put them in a bag labeled "Connecting Rods".

It's definitely some Oklahoma grade RTV because that thing would NOT come off! Thankfully the sludge is only that thick on the outside It's like somebody waded it through a giant puddle of gooey brownies.

 

I would suspect that you had oil leaks around everything with a gasket or seal, starting with the front seal, which throws it everywhere. Lots of buildup, no point dealing with it now, it will foul the workspace. When working with the machined surfaces, try to use plastic scrapers, softer than metal, won't score it.

 

Will do. Is it possible to change main bearings without removing the crankshaft? The only things I've found say "maybe".

 

"maybe" being if you are lucky and can get the bearing to slide around the journal to the crank side then yes.. The amount of frustration you will likely endure trying to replace the mains with the crank in the block would be exponentially high. At this point you may as well and go ahead and pull the block. All that's left to do is pull the motor mount brackets and the trans bolts and you're have the beast free and in a lot better position to work on things. If i were in your shoes that's the route i'd go.

You sure are getting a trial by fire with this truck. Doing a great job so far.

 

My mistake I thought he had the motor out of the vehicle. Good tips with the jack or bump start method I might have to try those. Sure beats pulling the front end off to get an impact on the nut.

 

The connecting rod bolts do not need to go back in the same rod, pay attention to the orientation of your main caps though as its best to put the caps and bolt back exactly how they came off.