Good to know, and the pressure light comes on when I turn the key and goes off when I start the engine, so it's good according to the factory test.

Big difference between my photo and yours actually, so a good cleaning is definitely in order.

Thanks again!

 

Yeah, quite a difference between ihscouts' photo and mine. Will definitely be cleaning the rockers this weekend.

 

The outside is obviously not so important as the inside. Chemtool in a gallon can with a basket is the bomb for cleaning smalls with hard carbon deposits as well as general oil sludge. Once you get things cleaned up then use snake oils. Actually just use quality synthetics or dino brands in diesel flavors, and buy quality filters.

 

Good deal. I'm using Rotella 15/40 Diesel now, and Mahle filters.

 

Your good to go with that combo. If the light is staying out then I don't think you have much to worry about but a good clean will keep things in tip top shape even with 170k of wear.

 

Ohhh boy. I was starting the teardown earlier and noticed the pulley had moved forward again by about 1/16" so I ran back down to re-borrow the installer kit to put it back in place. Long story short, I got the fan off and started on the pulley bolt... forgetting to lock up the flywheel first. Of course the whole thing moved a bit before I realized my mistake, so I moved the wrench back to its *approximate* starting position, as close as possible anyway, give or take 1/4"...

Obvious question: Is there any leeway or does the crank have to stay in its precise position, i.e., is it okay or am I screwed? If it's the latter, what should I do if anything before putting it back together and starting it up?

 

Do you mean the crank pulley in relation to the fan pulley? If so, then no it doesn't matter. With the belt off you can spin it all day long. Crank shaft and cam shaft are what matters and this is controlled by the timing chain which you didn't touch. The only reason you locked the flywheel was to be able to break the crank pulley bolt loose. Did you torque the crank pulley down last time? Not sure why it would have moved on you.

 

I started to break the crank pulley bolt and the crank rotated because I hadn't locked the flywheel yet... duh! I was just a little spooked when I posted the last reply, but now I realize locking the flywheel just enables you to remove/reinstall the crank pulley bolt. In answer to your question why did the pulley move again... I torqued it down pretty good the first time with a 24mm deep socket, however one thing I did not do was threadlock it. That'll change this time.

Thanks!

 

I wouldn't think you'd need any thread locking compound on it, however check the manual. What does 'pretty good' equate to in ft/lbs? Do you have a torque wrench?

 

200 ft/lbs. I was wondering if anyone was paying attention.... No thread locker needed at that spec and it's to flatten the dished washer. The dished washer is spring steel, locks the bolt in place.