I had the car running great and then about a week ago it started fine and then stalled after less than a minute. I couldn't get it to start with a jumper or anything. its not getting power to the fuel pump or sparking anymore. I've changed the crank position sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel pump relays, and tried with a different battery. also checked inertia switch and thats fine
Any ideas on what the issue would be?

 

I know you made sure that there was enough fuel in the tank, but I think it’s worth asking.

 

Tank is at about 80% and also verified there wasn't any crud at the bottom when I swapped to a new fuel pump. I relieved pressure from the line when I did the fuel filter and there is no pressure or anything coming through the line at the engine. I sprayed some starter spray in the intake to see if it would fire and occasionally I can get it to sputter and turn over but thats not consistent.

 

A couple questions to help clarify. Engine cranks (starter motor turns the engine), but does not start (aka Crank no start)? No OBD codes? No unusual indicator lights on the dash? Do you know the status of the anti-theft immobilizer system? Does the key lock the doors, or do you use a fob?

 

seems to be a crank no start to me. There is no OBD codes that my app can pull and no check engine lights or anything unusual on the dash. I had the immobilizer bypassed by splicing the orange and black wires. cant recall what post said to do that but it had worked for over a year prior. I have a key for the drivers door now and I unlocked it about a dozen times before starting as well. I tried to get it to engage the EKA by holding it to unlock for like 15 seconds but it didn't do anything. There is no working fob since the one I have hasn't worked since before I got the car

 

This is a long shot and only a smidge of a possibility. Check the knock sensors or the crank shaft position sensors. If the crank shaft position sensor is out the vehicle will not fire at all. if the knock sensors are out, fuel and performance are affected significantly and can muddle performance down to below sub-par. Good news on the crank shaft position sensor is it costs abut $20.00 on eBay. The knock sensors are a bit outrageous at about $175.0 a piece (You have two, one on each side of the block right next to the middle expansion plug).

 

Is there a wrong way to install the crank position sensor? I got a brand new one and that didn't do anything and I tried a used working spare and that had the same result. The knock sensors are both in place fine at the least and if I need I can pull those off my parts car and see if that helps.

 

If it is not getting power to the fuel pump, then the problem is not a sensor.

I would work my way back through the fuel pump circuits, using the ETM manual for the electrical diagrams. Check all the fuses too, by the driver's seat and under the hood.

The key mechanism can cause problems if it is not sending power to the correct busses. There are four positions for the key and each position has a different electrical function (not only to turn the starter motor).

 

so in checking all the fuses again it seems that the 20 amp engine management fuse in satellite 1 in the cabin keeps blowing whenever you try to start the car. any ideas on where to go from there in troubleshooting?

 

I would start pulling associated relays, or disconnecting various circuits to narrow down the problem component. Or could be a power wire shorted to ground.