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97 r380 clutch bleed joy oh joy.. anyone?

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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 05:24 PM
  #1  
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Three Wheeling
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Default 97 r380 clutch bleed joy oh joy.. anyone?

posted this Q on another forum, information about this is pretty scarce...

Just ressurected a 97 sd with cloth, zero options, low miles and a 5 speed. Its been sitting about 6 months... Ive had a 5 speed disco before and a IIA, and I've bled the clutch on the IIA and it wasn't much of an issue. This thing is an IQ test im failing though. Symptoms were a spongy clutch, when warm you could barely engage and operate the trans. Decided a clutch bleed and flush was in order. So far I've attempted two 1 man methods. Your basic vacume bleeder attached to the open slave with teflon tape on the threads of the bleed nipple, and the mason jar half full of DOT4 above the clutch master on the bulkhead connected by clear tubing primed and full of fluid and vigorous pumping of clutch pedal. In both cases I've left the master lid off prepared to fill the resevoir.
clues,
once slave bleeder was initially opened dot4 spilled of course and hence zero clutch resistance, makes sense as the system was opened.
using the mason jar method, the clutch pedal movement pushes the tiny bubbles basically back and forth...which makes sense... I mean, intuitively it would be close system, engage clutch, open system on pedal side, close system repeat. I saw someone succesfully simply pump the pedal with a honda using mason jar method...so... I'm just confused.
Using the vacume method, I get lots of big bubbles but zero change in resevoir level, so either I have LOTS of air in the system or a leak somewhere. I know its not at the nipple itself and the threads into the slave housing itself I double teflon taped, and dont see evidence of leaks near the cylinders or the hoses, not that there arent, I just don't see any.

I read a bit about a reverse bleed and am considering attempting this.

Any help would be appreciated, this is a seemingly straightforward job but its turned into a filthy frustrating PITA

Thanks for checking this Q out,

Joe
 
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 05:44 PM
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Manual procedure? Bad master or slave cylinder?
......
 
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Last edited by number9; Mar 17, 2016 at 05:50 PM.
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 06:36 PM
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Three Wheeling
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Thank You!
 
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 06:45 PM
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Three Wheeling
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I dived in before doing much research and hectored this job up by opening slave nipple, allowing fluid to flow freely for a second, pressing and depresssing the clutch with an uncovered hose.... essentially sucking air back up into the system with every upstroke of the clutch pedal.
.....uhhh read before acting, Joe

Any advice proceeding now...?

Thanks again.

Joe
 
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 06:52 PM
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Any advice proceeding now...?
Reset.

Fill master cyl. and bleed per manual.
......
 
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Old Apr 13, 2017 | 09:39 AM
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This is an old-*** post but for reference I will update with what I found the problem and solution to be for future people attempting to solve problems with their own vehicles.
Turns out I had a pin-hole leak hidden deep along the line itself. I ordered entirely new plumbing and reinstalled and that solved the problem. Basically, the leak was hidden and small enough that it leaked onto the frame and didn't pool under the vehicle so it wasn't obvious and was big enough that a closed system was impossible.

Joe
 
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