I have cross posted on other forums but I hope that is not bad form. I just want to get this out to as many eyes as I can. Thanks


1997 Land Rover Discovery XD
All electronics worked perfectly prior to the incident with the exception of the passenger side brake light being out. The vehicle was purchased without a keyless entry fob but the system is setup for one. The ignition switch has been replaced but the entrance locksets are original (needs 2 keys).

Incident: Truck was parked in driveway long enough to unload groceries etc. Went to move it and the following symptoms were found:

1. Turn the key to position 3(start).... very soft clicking only--- will not crank at all.
2. No Brake lights or Turn Signals in any key position
3. Transmission shifter locked in Park in all key positions
4. Transfer case shifter locked in high normal in all key positions.
5..The fan for Heating AC does not work in any key position
6. Wipers do not work in any key position
7. Electric mirrors do not work in any key position
8. Rear window de-fogger does not light up on the button in any key position.
9. Auxiliary lights (front brush bar mounted OEM fogs and rear facing spot light) all work and their OEM switch buttons light up
10.All other lights except for Brakes and turn signal work
11. Radio works
12. Key locks all door actuators and sets anti theft device
13. Theft protection light flashes fast (1 or more times per second) unless doors are locked from outside
14. If doors are locked from the outside, antitheft light is slower but still about 1 every 2 or 3 seconds.
15. The sidelights do not respond properly following activation or deactivation of the anti-theft system
16. If alarm sounds, the key will not silence it. It will repeat three 30 second alarm periods then stops.
17. No dash warning lights illuminate in any key position, including CEL or Service light.

The following diagnostics have been performed
1. Battery @ 12.57 VDC Have also tried jumping the battery from another vehicle. 13.67 VDC at battery when jumping.
2. No voltage drop at battery when key is turned to start position (DVM test points at + on battery and - at either frame or block).
3. Ground is perfect according to ohmmeter both at frame and block
4. All fuses (interior and under the hood) have been checked with tester

The following attempts to repair have been done.
1. The generic resets for the anti-theft system were ineffective
a) 4 quick lock unlocks cycles and
b) the generic EKA (NAF) 1515 keyturns [from lock 1 unlock 5 locks 1 unlock 5 locks])
c) There is no EKA available for NAF trucks.
2. The dual battery isolator system was removed from the system
3. Removal of alarm fuse or disconnecting the battery merely resets the alarm system and no effect on the other symptoms.

Any suggestions are welcome. I am willing to try anything that sounds remotely reasonable.

 

Neutral Safety switch? But I don't know about all the other issues you are having.

Do you have the key FOB?

 

Did you pop the top off the shifter handle and make sure the nut is tight? If it is loose, then the tranny is not actually in park even though the shifter appears to be.

Yours has more symptoms than I have ever heard of, but that cable being stretched will not allow key to be removed due to not fully engaging park.

Also you remove the screws from beneath and pull off that black cover and fully expose the key mechanism. These things can be very touchy. Especially if there is wear on the key or the mechanism.

Do a search on key stuck and you will find some horror stories where people have busted the key mechanism and started it with a screwdriver.

I have that cover off of mine due to repeated issues with the key, but none as severe as you describe. I just use finesse and feel when it seems to have somewhat of a spring type effect. With mine I yurn it to each position one step at a time, push in slightly, sometimes need to lightly turn the steering wheel to release the wheel lock then advance to the next position. It is a feel thing.

 

Inhibitor Switch on the tranny?......From past read of the "RAVE", the switch sounds like it will cause this problem. The fix was to pull it out, clean it, and re-install....

 

Thanks Danny

The key itself if just fine. In and out of ignition with no problems. Key turns in ignition smoothly with no issues. The problem is that unless the thing gets out of park, I have no chance of moving it. It will not get out of park unless the key is in position III and makes all the right connections. I am starting to think this is a horrible anti-theft problem.. I have read everything available and even have the 1996 Electronics Trouble Shooting Manual. Nothing like this anywhere..

 

+1 on making sure it's not the shifter cable. If you pop the top off the gear selector and tighten that it might walk you into park. Then maybe give you your functionality back.

 

Lawdawg48...
Any luck with getting your Rover going again? I am having the same problem with my XD as well. Its been stuck in the same spot for several days. I am getting "relay" clicking from under the passenger side dash and behind right and left floor kick plates. It started once last sunday, drove it for an hour, shut it off, and havent been able to start it since.

 

Also check the brake light switch on the brake pedal. That switch will prevent you from shifting out of park if the switch goes bad or does not close properly when it should.

There is an interlock that requires you to step on the brake to allow you to shift out of park and into reverse or other gears. If the switch does not activate, the interlock will not permit shifting out of park.

I have read where people used a paperclip as a jumper on the back of the switch in an emergency. Also I believe I read where the switch had merely backed out of the holding device behind the brake pedal. Some very devout Land Rover Owners even suggest carrying a spare switch in the vehicle since the results of a bad switch can leave you unable to move the vehicle such as GlobalSurfer is experiencing currently. What Part of PA are you in?

 

Danny Lee, Thanx for the post! I live in Springfield PA, west of Philly. You?
Got it out of park by tightening the top nut on the shifter. Still no crank. Yellow relay under passenger side dash clicks continuously while key is in on position. Lt green relay on drivers side behind kick plate will click once when turn key to start. Fuel pump not priming. All windows, lights, ac, fan, work. It seems to be in lock down mode.
This is what I've replaced:
Every fuse under drivers side dash and in black box under hood
New/rebuilt 120amp alt.
New "Optima" deep cycle battery (14.2 volts when running)
New serp belt and pulley tension-er
New plugs and wires
Checked all lights and bulbs, working...
Cleaned terminals and wiring harnesses at ECU
Switched relays under passenger side and drivers side dash to make sure they were function, they were.

Tried lock/unlock 3 and 4 sequence with key at drivers door and with remote
Checked switch behind foot break, looks ok
Tried the 1515 system but not sure I did it right

No fuel pump prime at all when key is in on position. Just the relay clicking...
Seems like its in anti theft lock down hell!!!

Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated before I set it on fire and roll it down the hill!!!

 

This happened to me more than once. Landrover service unofficially told me to disconnect the rear defrost on the window and touch the contacts together. I don't remember if this was the exact procedure so please check it out before doing anything. I don't know what the long term solution is as it worked fine after that and I left it. Maybe I don't have defrost but I really don't need it here. Also, I'm gonna pull my tints soon.

I think some crazy combo of wiggling the shifter, turning the key, pressing the brake might have done it once as well.