I recently purchased a 98 Disco I LE 4.0 and a 96 SE. The 98 is cosmetically in great shape but does not run. The mileage shows 110,000 and I believe that it was well maintained by the first owner because there is very little carbon build/ Slugging when the oil cap is removed. The second owner does not know what happened(never checked gauges) one night the car started running rough, was driven home, and then would not start the following morning. I assume it was overheated because there was no coolant left in the radiator when I became the owner several months later.

I also recently purchased a 96 SE for parts which looks as if it has been thru a lot in its 123,000 miles and the oil may have never been changed. It has what looks like milk choclate laced peanut butter on everything I can see thru the oil cap. Despite the globs of sludge it still runs but with a loud tap ( no knock is noticeable ).

Research has lead me to believe that I might be able to resurrect the 98 and possibly without removing the block. I have not attempted any project of this magnatude before but I have patience and time and this is what I want to do with it.

*I could use any advice on diagnostic procedures to determine if my engine is salvageable and if so what needs to be rebuilt.

*I have the D1 workshop manual but not a trouble shooting guide.

*The 98's Starter solenoid clicks and I assume it engages from the noise but the engine does not turn over.

*I have not attempted to turn the crank manually to see if it has seized but will as soon as I am sure what to look for if it does turn.

Thank You For Your Time

Will

 

I would try puting a new battery and check your cables on the 98 and see if it turns over, then once it does i would do a compression test and see what happens there. You mite get lucky and it mite be a head gasket problem. But i would definatly try to get it spinning over and top off all fluids and go from there......

 

As I said before, the starter does engage but does not turn the motor. It did sit up for the better part of a year before I ended up with it. I will try to turn the crankshaft by hand but I didn't feel sure that would be my next move and I am not certain I know how much resistance I should have or what I need to look for when I do. I assume that all I need to do to turn the crankshaft manually is remove the belt and use a socket on the crankshaft pulley. Do I need to turn it Clockwise or counter? This is what I need help with at this point and I am having trouble locating certain details in my research.

 

You might want to remove the spark plugs, squirt a little oil down the holes before you try to turn it over by hand. There could be water in the bores keeping it from turning over. That's a good idea though. With the plugs out it is a lot easier to turn over. Not sure which direction it goes around, but I don't think it would hurt either way just to determine if it is seized up or not.

 

Definitely pull the plugs, get you one of those old fashioned oil cans with the trigger and spout. sgirt some motor oilin each cylinder to lubricate it a little. Put a well fitting socket on the crankshaft pulley with the belt removed. Use a long breaker bar and ease it over. I think it would be clockwise, like it was running. See if it is seized or if it turns over. With the plugs out, it should not take that much effort is it isn't froze up.

 

This helps a great deal. I just spent the whole day traveling to pick up my 96 from slidel. I will try in the morning to turn the 98's crankshaft. If it turns I'm buyin the beers tomorrow night.

Thanks for the tips
Will
98 + 96 Disco 1

 

Make sure and pull the plugs, squirt some oil and leave them out. Turn it backwards first. I have pulled several old cars out of barns, and if you can break them free backwards first, they will usually run. Backwards is counterclockwise facing the engine.

If it was locked up while driving, it is done.

 

Sorry....no beers tonight. Block turns 1/4 turn either way and there is some strange noise present at the end of each turn. I pulled the flywheel cover and found what looks like the Cam bore freeze plug folded in half and chewed up by the flywheel. Outlook not good.

Now I have to decide to save the 96 instead of the 98 or start swapping the block. I think I will first dismantle the 98 engine to remove it. I dont think I can hurt it. I would like to save the Fuel system. Any tips like what not to do that might damage it would be appreciated.

 

Don't use large sledge hammers and chisel to remove anything.

I spray lots of PB Blaster on fasteners for two or three days prior to disassembly. Give it time to penetrate if the items are corroded. Also you can take a sharp knife and run it around the edge of a rusted nut/bolt to help define the part. the penetrant will get in between better if you do that.

I also use a longer breaker bar and a steady pull rather than trying to force something with an undersized tool. If all else fails use cutting wheel/grinder.

 

lol funny. I just drove from new orleans to north alabama to pick up a rover. How did you find the one down here? How much was it?