Okay, I have read several threads/posts regarding overheating. I have an UG hooked up at all times to monitor my temps etc... I have replaced both temp sensors, installed a 180 thermostat and temps range from 186 - 201 even with a new thermo I made sure it was installed correctly. I also pulled the rubber strip from the bottom of the radiator and cleaned between the condenser and radiator. I'm not sure it's an overheating issue but maybe the Fuel T.S. or the fact that my CKP has no heat shield it's missing. I do feel that the radiator needs to be pulled and rodded out, I can see some calcium build up close to the top. I am about a week away from giving this LR away for nothing. I need to add that after roughly 2 hours of run time it will die by spitting and sputtering and backfiring into the intake manifold, it takes approx. 1 - 1.5 hours before it will start again.

 

CKP heat shield may be part of the problem. Has to cool down before recrank. TIming messed up by CKP. You can cool that sensor off with water or compressed air and see if problem clears quickly. Boneyard nearby? D2 shown, D1 similar. Or call a dismantler, like Paul Grant.

You can meter the fuel temp sensor, normal is:


If you can see radiator calcium, there is more where that came from. Measure temp on the fins, truck warmed up, off, from top to bottom on same vertical line. Clean radiator will be 10F or less spread. Sludge tends to build up in the lower rows first, reducing flow, so they are cooler. My rodded out D1 makes about 5F difference top to bottom. Small tractor and construction equipment radiator shop near the farm side of town charged me $75 for rod out and flush, carry in.

 

I have replaced the CKP sensor and found a heat shield off a 2000 D2, I was able to modify it to stay in place. I just replaced the water pump and had the radiator rodded out it only had 10% blockage. I am still having issue's listed in my original post. My neighbor thinks the timing maybe off how is this possible ?

 

Timing is set by the CKP sensor, which is activated by these tabs flying by. It does not touch the tabs, they cause a signal to be generated. The ECU uses the signal, mixes it with knock sensor info, does some math, and computes timing per cylinder on the fly. My understanding is that in some Rovers you can have different advance for each cylinder, all at the same time.

You can inspect the teeth by removing a plate. Some have had bent ones, others have had broken off ones.

You would also want to take a volt meter, measure battery volts with truck off, head lights on. Crank truck, and that voltage should go up with it at idle. Turn on every thing (wipers, AC on max, radio, head lights) and battery voltage should stay above 13.2 volts. With just engine running, it should be 13.8 - 14.4 volts. An alternator with a bad diode would make less volts under load, and be a 33 or 66 amp alternator instead of the 100 amp that it needs to be; and you could drive for a couple of hours before reserve minutes in battery were exhausted.

 

I have some additional questions. On the CKP sensor I see where several threads mention replacing spacers in their correct position, when I replaced my CKP sensor there were no spacers only a cradle looking spacer/bracket. Should there be these little spacers that I keep seeing in the various threads regarding correct replacement of the CKP sensor? I have a 99 D1. Also on my UG my long term fuel trim continues to stay at -24.2 and it never moves what drives this #.

Thanks in advance.

 

It goes block+sensor+spacers+nuts. If you have it spaced wrong (too far from reluctor disc) it won't make pulses that control sparks, so no crank. If you have it too close, the tip gets bent.

Running for 2 hours seem like spacing is not the issue.

When it shuts down, you could test for spark with a spare plug.

Long term trim are driven by the adaptive values. See attached for a more exact description and codes. Generally, a sensor not changing is a bad sign.

 

Could Long Term Trim be driven by faulty O2 sensors ?

 

Yes, the long term fuel trim is affected by the O2 sensors. My long term fuel trim went the other way, +24.0 due to a vacuum leak (this was at idle). I'm not sure how you get high negative numbers. It is hard to believe that the O2 sensors would only be a problem after 2 hours of driving though. Your temps seem fine. 201 is no problem. Have you checked your fuel pressure ? My fuel pump went bad after the truck got warmed up, although it does seem a little strange that it would work again after it cooled off.

 

I feel that it could be the fuel pump is getting weak. So this would cause it to die at red lights ? spit sputter and backfire into the intake ? I do get the following codes on a regular basis P1177 , P1179 P300 and P1316 this are listed in order of frequency. I have replaced the IACV, FT sensor FPR and fuel filter. The only time I can hear the fuel pump running is if I have the carpet pulled back and access panel off. I just pulled the pre-cat O2 sensors and they are pink on the tip I am guessing from running lean rich or whatever.

Let me add that my rover will not start up immediately it will take 2 - 3 attempts morning or afternoon before it will start.

 

Try key on wait 3 seconds key off, do that four times and then try to crank. If priming before cranking works, then pump (regulator) could be dropping pressure. Might not be holding pressure.