Hey all I am brand new to these forums but just signed up to ask this question and stick around if I like my new car!

I am more than likely about to buy a 1996 Disco. I am aware of the problems it can have on the engine, particularly the whole slipped liner thing. A mechanic I know who owns the car is going over the whole thing and getting it to the best condition possible. That said, even if it is running and seemingly fine when I get it, I am especially worried about the many horror stories regarding the engine.

To put it simply, I don't have the cash to do an engine overhaul/rebuild any time soon. What I'm asking is this: if the car disco has no obvious issues when I purchase, no leaking fluids of any kind, what are the chances of it running for another year or two before I can start really working on it? 122k miles.

Btw, I eventually want to build it up as a Camel Trophy Disco, sometime in the future

 

Oh, and it does run as of right now, no major work obvious at the moment.

 

You said a mechanic owns it? I'd stay away. Every mechanic I know, and I work at a very large shop, only fixes what needs to be fixed. When they know they're selling it, they only fix the noticeable problems with the cheapest parts

 

I just bought a 1998 Disco1 a week ago and I'm being surprised daily. They aren't as easy to work on as I'd hoped. The front disc rotor replacement is not nearly as easy as on any other car on the planet, except for a Jag with the rotor at the diff. Try not to pay over $1,000 if you can help it. You'll need the money later. Pics would help us give it a value. Thx.

 

D1's are really easy to work on and parts are relatively cheap. Lots of room in the engine bay and most of the service tasks are straightforward.

I think people conflate D1's and D2's when talking about engine issues. I have 220k on my 1997 D1 and it finally needs the head gaskets done. They're tough trucks. I can't remember if 96 D1's have OBD or not? If they do, plug in a real time monitor to keep an eye on your temps.

i bought mine sight unseen in Big Sky MT. I flew in and drove it home 800 miles back to Seattle. I fixed the ABS with a paperclip (seriously!), replaced a leaking oil pressure switch, fixed one other oil leak on top of the engine and drove it for another 10k before the head started to leak. I figure, I'll do the heads and oil pump along with some other maintenance items and be good for another 100k or so after that.

 

Thinking this through a bit more, I'd be more concerned about all of the other "consumable wear items" on the truck that can very quickly blow your limited budget.

brakes -rotors and pads a brake job can easily be 800 bucks for parts plus labor. Given the seller is a mechanic and that rotors are a pain to swap, make sure that the rotors on the truck aren't below min thickness, drive the truck and make sure that they're not warped.

suspension- if the truck hasn't been lifted, most likely it's on the original and now completely shagged springs and shocks. Personally I find the terrafirma kits "too crashy" for my taste, and the OME kits are around 1k, and then you have to install it....


working blower motor- winter is coming

electrics - non working electric windows are inconvenient and can add up if you're not doing the work yourself.

cruise control, sunroofs, electric windows - everything can be fixed but again, it all adds up

AC - most likely won't be operational or the system will have leaks.


drivertrain - the zf transmission (assuming auto?) is pretty stout. The transfer case can and will leak. Take a look underneath for leaks. Sealing those up can get pricey.

 

Slipped liners are not a common issue unless the motor has been overheated many times. Not sure who or how you got that information but it's not your number one issue to worry about, not with a D1. Head gaskets are your number one issue. That is a five Franklin job if you do it yourself, takes about a weekend if you have a competent motor shop nearby that can turn and burn a head shave quick. I do have an engine shop versed in Rovers. Anyways the number one reason for the head gaskets to fail are overheats, the number two reason is corrosion. If your budget is that tight that you cannot proactively change the head gaskets or don't have the mechanical aptitude then I'd pass. I'm not saying the head gaskets will fail but it's better to be up front just in case. I know of a few buddies who've gone over the 200k mile mark without touching the head gaskets. The biggest item for those on a tight budget is fuel costs. These motors take premium unleaded, 91 Octane or 92 if it's available. I owned and maintained a Disco for 8 years, finally sold it for another project that I've just about completely wrapped up in 1 year for a fraction of the cost. Parts availability are another decision, most parts are not available at the corner parts palace. So down time is going to occur if not proactive. I finally can walk in, pay a premium and get everything I need right now for a project that is two years younger than your Disco. That's a big deal cuz time is not something I can wait on in my world.

 

They're OBDII. There are some items like window scissors and seat rail config that remained in the 94/95 era. The 97 was all new (sorta) with other borrowed LR parts. The link for Ultra Gauge is in my signature and that is the number one reason to buy a monitor, coolant temp.

 

Head gaskets is probably something I can get done quickly after buying the vehicle, so if that's the main concern it isn't going to hold me back. As for the slipped liners I had heard they're a much bigger issue on D2s but wasn't totally sure as I found some conflicting advice. I'm not at all concerned about fuel issues, I used to own a Saab which took premium and absolutely sucked to work on and by the end of its life I didn't care about fuel cost compared to everything else. So, replace the head gaskets and I personally want the thermostat replaced and might take the advice of getting real time monitors too. Might get the oil pressure checked too as I've hard cars crap out from that. I'm trying basically to get an essential budget checklist because honestly I love Rovers, need a rugged car for getting to sketchy mountain trailheads, and the love the 96 disco history. Thanks for the advice!

 

As Ihscouts mentions, there were quite a few differences between my '97 and your prospective 96. What I can vouch for is that my D1 is a much more drivable and "modern" feeling car than either of my Range Rover Classics. (93 and 94) interior trim is a better fit, diagnostics are easier and the GEMS engine management is a massive leap forward over 14cux