Abs light
#1
09-09-2010, 09:50 AM
Abs light
So I went many years without ABS because I didnt want to shell out the coin to have the codes read. I was always told going to the dealer was the only way to read your codes.... not true. D2's have the ABS Amigo and we get something better.... a paper clip!!!
You may need to clean connections on your abs sensors, or even pull the hub and clean the mating surfaces. Most commonly, you can just tap the sensor back down to eliminate the air gap.
Point is that this is so easy, you can keep resetting and working on the system until you absolutely know what the problem is before shelling out the big bucks for the repair.
Keep in mind that you are doing this at your own risk and neither I nor anyone on this forum are responsible for anything you do. You may get abs back and the system start locking up at unexpected times, or not at all. Proceed with caution and be aware that you have re-awakened a system that may not have been used in years.
I cannot take credit for the blink procedure, it was in a pdf on here .
Troubleshooting Why Your ABS Light is On - Range Rover Classic and Discovery 1
If your ABS Light is illuminated and you are not near a dealer or other diagnostic equipment, you
can use the blink method to determine what is causing the fault. First locate and remove the ABS
Warning Light Relay from the group of relays underneath the seat (consult owner's guide for
specific vehicle location, if needed). Then, find the blue 4 pin connector under the front of the
driver's seat on the RR (or under the black, cardboard lower dash drivers side on the Disco-1) and jumper the
black to black/pink wire with the key on – a paperclip will work.
ATTN: Only pre OBDII Disco's had the blue 4-pin connector. The base is blue and I am pretty sure it is X104 in Rave.
All OBDII Disco I's you have to jump terminals 5 and 15 on the data link connector. The data link connector is where you would plug in
your scanner to read engine codes. You do not have to pull the relay.
OBD2 pin out:
\ 1. 2. . 3. 4 . 5. 6. . 7 . 8. /
. \9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 /
Remember that 16 is +12V at all times. Be careful that you only stick it in 5 and 15!!
(forget all of the periods, just trying to space it out)
Jumper together terminals 5 and 15 with a paper clip and with the ignition in the on position II,
read the blink codes.
If you remove the paper clip while reading the code, it will erase that code. So that's what I did,
read and erase each code, one at a time. Took for a test drive, light went out, all is well. The light will stay on until you drive it.
The ABS light will first flash a long then short blink to indicate the system is in diagnostic mode.
Then you will start to get a flash sequence. Don’t panic cause the code will repeat. There will be a
set of flashes then a pause then another set of flashes then a long pause then it will repeat that
code 2 more times. You are counting two sets of flashes (i.e. blink, blink, pause, blink, blink, blink,
blink, blink, blink would be code 2-6 or “Stop Light Switch Fault…see codes below.)
To clear the code…you need to remove the jumper during the flash sequence.
Note: You may have more than one code to clear so don’t panic if you clear the code and another
sequence begins. It will continue to flash the code(s) until it has been displayed then the ABS
light will stay on. Turn the key off then back on & reinsert the jumper to go to the next code. If you
are not sure of a code just leave the jumper in & cycle the key on & off to restart the sequence.
Write down each code as you go & erase each one by pulling the jumper during the blink
sequence to erase that code. When you pull the jumper, allow the sequence to finish. The ABS
light will stay on after the code has finished blinking. Let me know if you need any more help or if
you need to know what the codes mean.
The ABS code series always starts with the following sequence of 1 long, 1 short, pause 1 long,
and 1 short. It then goes into displaying the codes. Every code starts with 2 pulses on (2.5s each)
and then a series of pulses which are the rest of the code.
Codes:
2-12 Front Right
2-13 Rear Left
2-14 Front left
2-15 Rear Right
Reason: Too large an air gap, or sensor has been forced out by exciter ring – try tapping sensor
back into place.
5-12 front right
5-13 rear left
5-14 front left
5-15 Rear Right
Reason: Sensor wire has an intermittent fault – check connection(s).
6-12 front right
6-13 rear left
6-14 front left
6-15 rear right
Reason: no output from sensor. Sensor may have too large an air gap. Try tapping in sensor(s),
check connections.
4-12 Front right
4- 13 rear left
4- 14 front left
4- 15 rear right
Reason: Wiring to sensor is broken or sensor resistance is too high. Inspect wiring at sensors.
2-6 Stop light switch
Reason: Faulty switch or wiring. Replace brake light switch.
Code 2-7: Continous supply to the ECU with the ignition off. Faulty valve relay or wiring.
Code 2-8: No voltage to ABS Solenoid valves. Faulty valve relay or wiring.
Codes 3-0 to 3-9: Open circuit or connection from ECU to solenoid valve in booster, or in ECU.
Codes 4-0 to 4-9: Short circuit to earth from ECU to solenoid valve in booster.
Codes 5-0 to 5-9: Short circuit to 12 volts in connection from ECU to solenoid
valve in booster. Possible earth fault.
Codes 6-0 to 6-9: Short circuit between two connections from ECU to solenoid valve in booster.
I will add this link. It is not for our specific model of ABS controller, but the code list is complete and should point you closer to a code not listed above....
http://www.meritorhvs.com/MeritorHVS_Documents/mm38.pdf
You may need to clean connections on your abs sensors, or even pull the hub and clean the mating surfaces. Most commonly, you can just tap the sensor back down to eliminate the air gap.
Point is that this is so easy, you can keep resetting and working on the system until you absolutely know what the problem is before shelling out the big bucks for the repair.
Keep in mind that you are doing this at your own risk and neither I nor anyone on this forum are responsible for anything you do. You may get abs back and the system start locking up at unexpected times, or not at all. Proceed with caution and be aware that you have re-awakened a system that may not have been used in years.
I cannot take credit for the blink procedure, it was in a pdf on here .
Troubleshooting Why Your ABS Light is On - Range Rover Classic and Discovery 1
If your ABS Light is illuminated and you are not near a dealer or other diagnostic equipment, you
can use the blink method to determine what is causing the fault. First locate and remove the ABS
Warning Light Relay from the group of relays underneath the seat (consult owner's guide for
specific vehicle location, if needed). Then, find the blue 4 pin connector under the front of the
driver's seat on the RR (or under the black, cardboard lower dash drivers side on the Disco-1) and jumper the
black to black/pink wire with the key on – a paperclip will work.
ATTN: Only pre OBDII Disco's had the blue 4-pin connector. The base is blue and I am pretty sure it is X104 in Rave.
All OBDII Disco I's you have to jump terminals 5 and 15 on the data link connector. The data link connector is where you would plug in
your scanner to read engine codes. You do not have to pull the relay.
OBD2 pin out:
\ 1. 2. . 3. 4 . 5. 6. . 7 . 8. /
. \9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 /
Remember that 16 is +12V at all times. Be careful that you only stick it in 5 and 15!!
(forget all of the periods, just trying to space it out)
Jumper together terminals 5 and 15 with a paper clip and with the ignition in the on position II,
read the blink codes.
If you remove the paper clip while reading the code, it will erase that code. So that's what I did,
read and erase each code, one at a time. Took for a test drive, light went out, all is well. The light will stay on until you drive it.
The ABS light will first flash a long then short blink to indicate the system is in diagnostic mode.
Then you will start to get a flash sequence. Don’t panic cause the code will repeat. There will be a
set of flashes then a pause then another set of flashes then a long pause then it will repeat that
code 2 more times. You are counting two sets of flashes (i.e. blink, blink, pause, blink, blink, blink,
blink, blink, blink would be code 2-6 or “Stop Light Switch Fault…see codes below.)
To clear the code…you need to remove the jumper during the flash sequence.
Note: You may have more than one code to clear so don’t panic if you clear the code and another
sequence begins. It will continue to flash the code(s) until it has been displayed then the ABS
light will stay on. Turn the key off then back on & reinsert the jumper to go to the next code. If you
are not sure of a code just leave the jumper in & cycle the key on & off to restart the sequence.
Write down each code as you go & erase each one by pulling the jumper during the blink
sequence to erase that code. When you pull the jumper, allow the sequence to finish. The ABS
light will stay on after the code has finished blinking. Let me know if you need any more help or if
you need to know what the codes mean.
The ABS code series always starts with the following sequence of 1 long, 1 short, pause 1 long,
and 1 short. It then goes into displaying the codes. Every code starts with 2 pulses on (2.5s each)
and then a series of pulses which are the rest of the code.
Codes:
2-12 Front Right
2-13 Rear Left
2-14 Front left
2-15 Rear Right
Reason: Too large an air gap, or sensor has been forced out by exciter ring – try tapping sensor
back into place.
5-12 front right
5-13 rear left
5-14 front left
5-15 Rear Right
Reason: Sensor wire has an intermittent fault – check connection(s).
6-12 front right
6-13 rear left
6-14 front left
6-15 rear right
Reason: no output from sensor. Sensor may have too large an air gap. Try tapping in sensor(s),
check connections.
4-12 Front right
4- 13 rear left
4- 14 front left
4- 15 rear right
Reason: Wiring to sensor is broken or sensor resistance is too high. Inspect wiring at sensors.
2-6 Stop light switch
Reason: Faulty switch or wiring. Replace brake light switch.
Code 2-7: Continous supply to the ECU with the ignition off. Faulty valve relay or wiring.
Code 2-8: No voltage to ABS Solenoid valves. Faulty valve relay or wiring.
Codes 3-0 to 3-9: Open circuit or connection from ECU to solenoid valve in booster, or in ECU.
Codes 4-0 to 4-9: Short circuit to earth from ECU to solenoid valve in booster.
Codes 5-0 to 5-9: Short circuit to 12 volts in connection from ECU to solenoid
valve in booster. Possible earth fault.
Codes 6-0 to 6-9: Short circuit between two connections from ECU to solenoid valve in booster.
I will add this link. It is not for our specific model of ABS controller, but the code list is complete and should point you closer to a code not listed above....
http://www.meritorhvs.com/MeritorHVS_Documents/mm38.pdf
Last edited by okdiscoguy; 09-13-2010 at 09:38 AM.
#3
09-09-2010, 10:13 AM
#4
09-10-2010, 09:03 AM
Mudding
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Alaska
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Thanks for sending it to spike to get it posted. It brings a smile to my face when someone saves a crapload of money by reading these forums. Can't beat it!! I read one for my snowmobiles also and got $800 worth of parts to upgrade the front end on my sled for $135 plus shipping. All for posting a couple pics on the forum. The guy had extra parts and sold them to me dirt cheap. Gotta love it!
Last edited by jbriggs; 09-10-2010 at 09:06 AM.
#6
09-10-2010, 11:32 AM
Ok, going trough RAVE, the test connector is on the DRIVER's side under the black plastic trim. Below the part that folds down. That will be a blue connector and has the Black/Pink wire you should go through. Find that first and read the codes that way before you go any farther...
Last edited by okdiscoguy; 09-10-2010 at 11:56 AM.
#7
09-10-2010, 11:43 AM
I need to research more before typing.... Your pump is on the unit. If you tested again, the right way (sorry) and you still get the same code...
Ok, On the front of your ABS unit, there is a round connector with a black wire and an orange wire. With the key off, unplug and check voltage. should be zero. That is the connector for the pump.
From Rave, K102 is the pump relay. Pin 11 from the ABS ECU turns the pump on, and Pin 30 reads the voltage going to the pump. Pull K102 and see if you get that code still. Should be the front one to the left of the one you just pulled. K101 looks to be the valve (load) relay.
Pull K102 and make sure it isn't stuck closed. After checking and you don't get that code with K102 pulled, see if it clicks when you put it back in... if not and you get the same code, swap it ( you could also pull it apart and test it, but not sure how far you want to go...) it should be a yellow relay..
Ok, On the front of your ABS unit, there is a round connector with a black wire and an orange wire. With the key off, unplug and check voltage. should be zero. That is the connector for the pump.
From Rave, K102 is the pump relay. Pin 11 from the ABS ECU turns the pump on, and Pin 30 reads the voltage going to the pump. Pull K102 and see if you get that code still. Should be the front one to the left of the one you just pulled. K101 looks to be the valve (load) relay.
Pull K102 and make sure it isn't stuck closed. After checking and you don't get that code with K102 pulled, see if it clicks when you put it back in... if not and you get the same code, swap it ( you could also pull it apart and test it, but not sure how far you want to go...) it should be a yellow relay..
Last edited by okdiscoguy; 09-10-2010 at 11:57 AM.
#10
10-06-2010, 04:23 AM
