"Advanced Evaporative Loss System" and fluids question
#1
"Advanced Evaporative Loss System" and fluids question
Trying to get the Rover ready for winter duties and just going through fixing various things and such. Tried to get O2 sensors for it but Bosch lists 2 different numbers depending if it is equipped with "Advanced Evaporative Loss System." How do I know?
Here is with it:
ANd here is with out it:
Also, what fluids for diff, t-case, trans and diff "*****"? Tried looking it up but the trans says Dexron IID which I Cannot find and everything else just says GL5 with no weight? I'd like to replace all fluids. It has 125k on it and it's a manual.
Thanks guys.
Here is with it:
ANd here is with out it:
Also, what fluids for diff, t-case, trans and diff "*****"? Tried looking it up but the trans says Dexron IID which I Cannot find and everything else just says GL5 with no weight? I'd like to replace all fluids. It has 125k on it and it's a manual.
Thanks guys.
#3
I was on Atlantic British website yesterday, and if you had the choice of an AEV part, there was a link that showed you were to look on a sticker which I think was under the hood. There is a certain number on that sticker that tells you if the vehicle has AEV. I would trying looking for that part at AB, and see if it includes that link. Because to be honest with you, I don't know how to identify AEV either.
#4
#5
Or you could just follow the lead up and see what color the connector is. If it is black, you do NOT have it, if the plug is gray you do. You should hope you do because it means about 1/3 less for O2 sensors.
Part numbers, if you are interested:
WID AELs:
NTK Oxygen Sensors 25044 - NTK Oxygen Sensors large image
Brand
NTK Oxygen SensorsManufacturer's Part Number
25044Part Type
Oxygen SensorsProduct Line
NTK Oxygen SensorsSummit Racing Part Number
NGK-25044UPC
087295250440
Number of Wires
4Voltage Range
0-1 VMounting Style
Thread-inOxygen Sensor Bung Included
NoWiring Harness Included
YesQuantity
Sold individually.
and WIDOUT AELS
4 Wire Non-Flanged OE Identical Titania Oxygen Sensor, Direct Plug In, No Cutting or Splicing Required For Installation. Wire Length: 520mm/20.47in.
Select Application:
--Please Select Application-- w/AELS w/o AELS
Super Class Part Name Stock Number Part Number Loc 1 Loc 2 Notes Price Qty Add To Cart OE identical O2 sensor 25017 25017 After Catalyst Left
$129.85
OE identical O2 sensor 25017 25017 After Catalyst Right
$129.85
OE identical O2 sensor 25017 25017 Before Catalyst Left
$129.85
OE identical O2 sensor 25017 25017 Before Catalyst Right
$129.85
But you can find them around for about $100, sometimes less. They are actually the SAME SENSOR with a different plug. Really.
Enjoy.
Part numbers, if you are interested:
WID AELs:
NTK Oxygen Sensors 25044 - NTK Oxygen Sensors large image
- $63.69
- + Wish List
- + compare
- Oxygen Sensor, 4-Wire, 0-1 V, Land Rover, 2.5/3.9/4.0/4.6L, Each
- Application Specific Part: Check Application
- Estimated Ship Date: 10/28/2010
- Email this page
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- Overview
- Application
- Show All
Brand
NTK Oxygen SensorsManufacturer's Part Number
25044Part Type
Oxygen SensorsProduct Line
NTK Oxygen SensorsSummit Racing Part Number
NGK-25044UPC
087295250440
Number of Wires
4Voltage Range
0-1 VMounting Style
Thread-inOxygen Sensor Bung Included
NoWiring Harness Included
YesQuantity
Sold individually.
and WIDOUT AELS
4 Wire Non-Flanged OE Identical Titania Oxygen Sensor, Direct Plug In, No Cutting or Splicing Required For Installation. Wire Length: 520mm/20.47in.
Select Application:
--Please Select Application-- w/AELS w/o AELS
Super Class Part Name Stock Number Part Number Loc 1 Loc 2 Notes Price Qty Add To Cart OE identical O2 sensor 25017 25017 After Catalyst Left
$129.85
OE identical O2 sensor 25017 25017 After Catalyst Right
$129.85
OE identical O2 sensor 25017 25017 Before Catalyst Left
$129.85
OE identical O2 sensor 25017 25017 Before Catalyst Right
$129.85
But you can find them around for about $100, sometimes less. They are actually the SAME SENSOR with a different plug. Really.
Enjoy.
Last edited by geek_IM; 10-13-2010 at 03:45 PM.
#6
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Pittsburgh PA suburbs.
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7 Posts
Garret,
If you noticed, most people put info about the vehicle in their signature. Year, miles,etc.
This helps everyone when it comes to identifying a problem. I have an "early" 97 which is pre-AEL. The fuel pumps for these are a lot cheaper than the AEL version.
Like Mike asked, are youy having O2 problems, any codes? Are do you just like spending money on expensive parts?
Raise you hood and find your emissions sticker or if it is a 97, the VIN is the best thing to go by.
If you noticed, most people put info about the vehicle in their signature. Year, miles,etc.
This helps everyone when it comes to identifying a problem. I have an "early" 97 which is pre-AEL. The fuel pumps for these are a lot cheaper than the AEL version.
Like Mike asked, are youy having O2 problems, any codes? Are do you just like spending money on expensive parts?
Raise you hood and find your emissions sticker or if it is a 97, the VIN is the best thing to go by.
#7
These determine the EVAP family. Should be on a sticker under the hood.
VLR1124AYPFE - Advanced Evaporative Loss System
VLR1060AYPBC - Standard Evaporative Loss System
Dexron III is reverse compatible with Dexron IId - pretty sure. Not too many MT's out there. I will let one of them chime in to see what they are using..
The weight it call for is an 80W90. Some use 75W90, it is ok, but if you have some miles on her, and have a little clunking, you can go up to 95W140. Anything in that range is ok. I am running 95W140. It is thicker for the winter months, and your fuel mileage may suffer a little, but it does wonders for driveline slap. You use the same gear oil in the t-case and front and rear diffs. Each part takes a little over 2 quarts.
The "diff *****" you refer to I am guessing are the swivel *****. 2 shiny ***** right by the wheel.. These take a special blend put out by Rover that come in a "one shot" package... that is the name of them. Thicker than oil, but lighter than grease. If you put grease in, it won't get where it needs to, and if you put oil in, it will leak where you don't want it.. Get the one shot's for those..
Oh, and keep in mind the power steering takes ATF...
VLR1124AYPFE - Advanced Evaporative Loss System
VLR1060AYPBC - Standard Evaporative Loss System
Dexron III is reverse compatible with Dexron IId - pretty sure. Not too many MT's out there. I will let one of them chime in to see what they are using..
The weight it call for is an 80W90. Some use 75W90, it is ok, but if you have some miles on her, and have a little clunking, you can go up to 95W140. Anything in that range is ok. I am running 95W140. It is thicker for the winter months, and your fuel mileage may suffer a little, but it does wonders for driveline slap. You use the same gear oil in the t-case and front and rear diffs. Each part takes a little over 2 quarts.
The "diff *****" you refer to I am guessing are the swivel *****. 2 shiny ***** right by the wheel.. These take a special blend put out by Rover that come in a "one shot" package... that is the name of them. Thicker than oil, but lighter than grease. If you put grease in, it won't get where it needs to, and if you put oil in, it will leak where you don't want it.. Get the one shot's for those..
Oh, and keep in mind the power steering takes ATF...
#8
Garret,
If you noticed, most people put info about the vehicle in their signature. Year, miles,etc.
This helps everyone when it comes to identifying a problem. I have an "early" 97 which is pre-AEL. The fuel pumps for these are a lot cheaper than the AEL version.
Like Mike asked, are youy having O2 problems, any codes? Are do you just like spending money on expensive parts?
Raise you hood and find your emissions sticker or if it is a 97, the VIN is the best thing to go by.
If you noticed, most people put info about the vehicle in their signature. Year, miles,etc.
This helps everyone when it comes to identifying a problem. I have an "early" 97 which is pre-AEL. The fuel pumps for these are a lot cheaper than the AEL version.
Like Mike asked, are youy having O2 problems, any codes? Are do you just like spending money on expensive parts?
Raise you hood and find your emissions sticker or if it is a 97, the VIN is the best thing to go by.
The truck needs a good tune up and I'm going to do one. O2 sensor is in the tune up section in my book.
It's a 96.