Advice on header shrinkage...
98 D1 4.0 with stock exhaust.
Noticed an issue during disassembly after breaking off a bolt when removing exhaust manifolds. Did my research and bought the tool to separate the runners, however the tool is too long for outside span and too short for the middle span.
Any suggestions?
I'm a good 1/4 inch or 5mm off on the worst one.
Noticed an issue during disassembly after breaking off a bolt when removing exhaust manifolds. Did my research and bought the tool to separate the runners, however the tool is too long for outside span and too short for the middle span.
Any suggestions?
I'm a good 1/4 inch or 5mm off on the worst one.
You might be in the market for a newerish manifold. That's way off. If it where me I'd remove the manifold and take it into the shop where I'd rose bud the manifold to cherry red and use a pry bar to separate. Then using a commercial belt/disc sander retouch the runners flat. I have a shop at work I can do that though. If you try to move those runners with the manifold cold it's gonna crack and it might not happen immediately but after your remount and use.
Makes sense. But not yet. I'll make calls tomorrow. Not really sure if I should call an indie shop, performance shop, regular mechanic, exhaust shop, or metal fab shop...
A welding shop would be my favorite. I still think you should just snag one from somewhere, heck Paul Grant probably has a couple hundred pounds of them. If you decide to take it for a date then have the actual stud measurements available for them. Give the total outside stud to outside stud measurement then the next two runner outer stud width. It would look like four holes. You can do just that with cardboard and a punch if you want close.
I would make a pin jig to hold each runner, heat and bend until the flange fits the pins and let cool in place. Very easy for me to say eh. My buddy and I at work have removed cast compressor pulleys the size of a kitchen table with a rosebud. Taint nothing but a thing.
I would make a pin jig to hold each runner, heat and bend until the flange fits the pins and let cool in place. Very easy for me to say eh. My buddy and I at work have removed cast compressor pulleys the size of a kitchen table with a rosebud. Taint nothing but a thing.
The headers are made for the 3.9 and must be dented to fit around 4.0's steering shaft. Do you really want to bust out the cash for something you need to dent out of the box? It would be cheaper to make your own shorty's.
I'm not sure why you wrapped your cast manifolds but normally that's meant for headers to help scavenge them by holding in the heat. I would think you've already mastered the art of cherry red by the movement of those runners. If you want a cool engine bay then ceramic is the only method for cast. Cast already holds heat, they don't need a blanket.
I'm not sure why you wrapped your cast manifolds but normally that's meant for headers to help scavenge them by holding in the heat. I would think you've already mastered the art of cherry red by the movement of those runners. If you want a cool engine bay then ceramic is the only method for cast. Cast already holds heat, they don't need a blanket.
I'm not sure why you wrapped your cast manifolds but normally that's meant for headers to help scavenge them by holding in the heat. I would think you've already mastered the art of cherry red by the movement of those runners. If you want a cool engine bay then ceramic is the only method for cast. Cast already holds heat, they don't need a blanket.


