Air bubbles in coolant
#1
Air bubbles in coolant
I hooked up my coolant funnel to the radiator hole and noticed little bubbles at idle. I did this after I noticed air keeps coming back into the system after each bleed. When I rev the engine larger bubbles come out. I thought the head gasket may be leaking, but my block tester is not detecting anything. Where else could air be coming in from?
#2
Not a real good sign, and something you want to resolve asap.
If it were me, I'd pull the plugs and look for 1 or 2 different from the rest.(write down which plug came out of which cyl.)
Then do a warm compression check (wide open throttle)
See if there's any cyl. lower than the rest, do they correspond to a plug that looked a little different? (hopefully you don't have new plugs in it)
The next would be a leakdown test on rad and each cyl (during cyl. test, listen to muffler and intake thru throttle body, you may get insight to any int/exh valves leaking.
(or oil dipstick tube to see if rings are bad)
For the cyl test they/you will screw a hose with a sparkplug type tip into sparkplug hole and apply compressed air (naturally, the valves will be closed on that cyl - TDC compression stroke)
luck,greg
If it were me, I'd pull the plugs and look for 1 or 2 different from the rest.(write down which plug came out of which cyl.)
Then do a warm compression check (wide open throttle)
See if there's any cyl. lower than the rest, do they correspond to a plug that looked a little different? (hopefully you don't have new plugs in it)
The next would be a leakdown test on rad and each cyl (during cyl. test, listen to muffler and intake thru throttle body, you may get insight to any int/exh valves leaking.
(or oil dipstick tube to see if rings are bad)
For the cyl test they/you will screw a hose with a sparkplug type tip into sparkplug hole and apply compressed air (naturally, the valves will be closed on that cyl - TDC compression stroke)
luck,greg
#5
Yes, I have replaced all the hoses and bled the system properly per the sticky several times. Nothing seems to get rid of the air coming into the system. I even removed the t-stat to make sure it was not sticking. This helped keep the temps down for a while, but it will overheat when idling for 10 mins. Reving the engine in park will lower the temp, but I still hear the air in the heater core. I am wondering if air is coming into the system at another location since my block test kit did not detect anything. I tested the napa block tester solution by breathing into the tube and it changed color so I know it is working. I also recently changed the plugs and they looked all the same. I bought a coolant pressure tester which I am going to pump to 12psi and see if I can see any external leaks but don't think any will show as no coolant is leaking.
Last edited by bantham1; 08-03-2010 at 06:25 PM.
#6
In your second response you say you're not losing coolant, reread what you said first time.
Your detect tester is just not picking it up.
DI's are very forgiving in regards to purging out air, if you have air in it, you'll only end up with a low resevoir. (after you button it up and drive around the block) - (I wouldn't drive it around w/o the tstat, unless it was stuck shut)
You state in your second post, it overheats when idling, how's your fan clutch? - Fan shroud intact?
And I believe our systems run with 15psi, normally
luck,greg
Your detect tester is just not picking it up.
DI's are very forgiving in regards to purging out air, if you have air in it, you'll only end up with a low resevoir. (after you button it up and drive around the block) - (I wouldn't drive it around w/o the tstat, unless it was stuck shut)
You state in your second post, it overheats when idling, how's your fan clutch? - Fan shroud intact?
And I believe our systems run with 15psi, normally
luck,greg
Last edited by greg409; 08-03-2010 at 07:21 PM.
#7
#8
the pressure test should hold 15psi for at least 5min, IMO, unless tester says otherwise.
Remember, the pressure may drop if everything is not sealed perfectly (including the tester connections)
Here's how I sucessfully do mine every 2 years (probably the same as you)
Drain it thru' bottom hose to rad - re-attach hose
Fill rad thru' top plug, wait, do it again, start 'er up
Fill thru' plug as necessary, (heater fan on, to detect when core is hot)
Keep filling thru' plug, slowly, 'cuz it's starting to puke a little-
Once it won't take any more thru' plug, I re-install plug & check the resevoir tank (usually has some in it by now)
Drive around block, let 'er cool down, re-check resevoir, fill to halfway, check after another drive cyle & cooldown
I checked mine today after April flush, (I don't trust it) and it was still half full tank.
I've had (2) 220deg. occasions in traffic this year and no apparent problems
luck,greg
#9