I have a 98 D1 that I bought this month. This is going to be a steep learning curve...

The fobs don't work, central locking doesn't work with the key, and when I plug the alarn ecu back in, the hazards flash and will not stop. I am assuming that the horn sounds as well, but the non-functional horn is pretty far down my list of things to do...

Is this an issue that needs to be refered to the dealer for re-programming the key fobs? I have looked at the reset procedure from the RAVE, but since my central locks don't work, I'm wondering if it's worth trying?

Thanks,

Phil

 

NOT a dealer, way to expensive and most of them aren't schooled on D1's.
Find a good local Rover mechanic and let it find what shut the system causing the last owner to turn it off.

 

I just use the key in the driver's door. I don't care about the FOB. Like Mike said, go to the dealer, you will spend a fortune. Try the reset and go from there.

 

Phil -
Here are some instructions from a great site for diagnosing, re-setting and "synching" your FOB's. I would start with a "reset", trying the generic, KEY entered EKA:
Generic EKA Procedure on NAS Range Rovers
The EKA feature does not seem to be enabled on US vehicles, or some Australian ones, and is not mentioned in their owners' handbooks (but see "rest of world" section below). However there does seem to be an abbreviated version of the procedure available on NAS models, intended to be known only by Land Rover dealers and using a generic code (1515) for all vehicles. One US owner with a 2000 Range Rover had his vehicle stranded with a dead battery and no remote available, but when jumpering it got the message "Engine Disabled, Press Remote". Since he did not have a remote, he managed to reactivate the vehicle using a variant of the EKA procedure that the dealer confided -- the dealer was fairly sure that almost all NAS P38's have the same EKA code, which is:
Unlock once
lock 5 times,
unlock once,
and then lock 5 times

This comes from this site:

Security and Alarm System Operation & Diagnosis on Range Rover 4.0/4.6/P38A

I understand you are dealing with a Discovery, but these solutions seem to work for our Disco's as well.

Good Luck!

Chris

 

Would that also apply when changing batteries on a FOB that has not been used for a few years?

I know I have seen some write-up in the RAVE that talks about a "Volumetric" sensor, like if the internal air volume suddenly changes, it triggers the alarm. Is anybody familar with that? What if it malfunctions?

I would just as soon not have any damn alarm on mine.

 

Fixed!

Locked all the doors, plugged in the alarm ECU and then did the reset procedure, turning the ignition on-off-on.

Central Locking works (except for the passenger front. Actuator is good, but door won't lock), Key fobs work, all is good.

Well, except for the rest of it...

 

Try lubricating all the door mechanisms, it might help if it is sticking.

 

DLD -
Sorry abut that - just saw your question. Yes, it will "re-set" and establish connections to a FOB that has not been used in a couple years. the biggest issue with the FOB Vs. Key is that the vehicle communicated to the FOB and tracks the sequence of "unlocks" etc... If you have an ADD 12 year old who sat just out of range of your truck and hit the "Lock/Unlock" buttons no fewer than 500 times, your FOB is WELL beyond the "acceptable"" range (I think this is 15 or 20...) of sequence numbers for your truck to accept the "unlock/disarm" command from the FOB - and manually re-setting, or even just getting in the truck, turning the ignition to "On" (don't start it) and click the "Unlock" button on the FOB will also "Re-Pair"/"Synch"/"Program" it so that it will continue working. (Now if I could only find this procedure for a 2001 Jetta!!)

You are correct that there is a volumetric sensor - which just proves once again that these trucks are, IMHO, equipped with a lot of bells and whistles that it really did not need, just because they could. (Rear O2 sensors, Volumetric and motion detection sensors for the Immobilization Spider, the silly "trumpet" on the front of our intake boxes etc...etc...etc....) And after all that, they put a cup holder in that won't hold a freaking cup!! I would rather it not be there at all...

Anyway, good luck! Let me know if you get it "re-Paired"!

Chris

 

I think I will just keep on using just the key. Does anyone want the FOB?. It has sat unused for the last two years or so.

I trust the key and have a total of 3, the one original that came with it twisted and cracked, so I had two new ones made.

I prefer not to engage an alarm system that may disable it>>>