Or... Should I just bite the bullet and get the upgrade prop shaft from Lucky 8? I know that's what I SHOULD do, but so many mods, so few pennies.

Real talk, if you have a roto puck... holler.

 

Since I'm putting many miles on Indy these days I replaced mine and have the old one in the garage. It has a few cracks and is far from perfect, but you could probably get a few more miles out of it. Not sure what shape yours is in, but this is yours if you want it.

 

$40 gets you a new one with free shipping on Amazon Prime.

 

I hope you are joking!
I would rather burn the $40 than buy a POS URO Parts Rotoflex that might last a month or 2.
Anything from URO Parts the quality is such garbage.

 

I don't have any D1's with a RotoFlex so no experience with that Uro part. Just pointing it out. You can also get a RotoFlex from RovahFarm for about $40.

 

No worries, most of my DI's and RRC's are converted but if you ever need a rotoflex the only way to go IMHO is with a GKN made in Germany.

If you put the GKN vs. any other brand the quality is night and day. They are more money but worth every penny.
Trevor @ RovahFarm has good prices on the GKN too.

 

GKN Guibo FTW!!!!
In all honesty, I wouldn't dare refit a used and worn out part like the rubber doughnut.
That's like asking for someone's used oil to put in your engine. You are setting yourself up for failure.

 

I agree with you 100% regarding using a used rotoflex from any brand is a very bad idea!
My posts were only referring to using a new GKN and the benefits of it being a quality part.
I’ve seen a UROParts roto fall apart in under 1500 miles. 😢

 

I beg to differ, Mr. Roto didn't make it to the 400 mile mark before ripping apart a new one which was my third. Second one lasted 2,300 miles before vibration problems popped up plus the rather new one installed by the dealership for the PO before me only lasting 3,100 miles before it was ripped apart. Standard height, HD springs all around, super HD anti roll bars both ends. Roroflex joints were no match against a warmed over 4.6 with chip and 5 spd.
I believe it was Atlantic British one Christmas holiday sale years ago something like 40% off still overpriced but a real OEM steel U joint driveshaft thus ending the ripped apart rubber garbage with vibration problem adventures.
Don't keep wasting your money replacing that rubber crap especially if your lifted, wait for a sale and do it right.
Simple replacement job but do make a note of the pinion pre load not just replacing the yoke and nut to the exact marked position as removed as the bearing preload will end up being too low or loose. Mr. ring & pinion will not be happy nor your wallet replacing them rather quickly not enough pre load......~~=o&o>.......

 

I thought the pinion preload on Rover diffs was set by shims that gave a certain preload when the flange nut was torqued to spec? I don't think changing the flanged end from a Roto to Ujoint will have an effect on preload because the shims aren't changed. Then again it's been a while since I've had a diff apart.