Changing the brake pads and replacing the brake fluid on a 1995 Rover Disco I

1. lift the rover
2. take off the wheels and tires
3. remove the cotter pins and springs on the brake caliper
4. remove the brake caliper
5. remover the brake pads
6. change them
7. and re add the caliper on the rotor

Does this sound right?
The reason I ask is I tried to do this yesterday and after I removed the cotter pins and springs I tried to remove the caliper but it would not budge. Disco Mike told me that there might be hydraulic pressure holding the caliper in place. To remove this pressure I use a clamp or something to push the brake pad into the piston right?

How I was planning on changing the brake fluid:
1. using a turkey baster remove all the fluid in the reservoir
2. refill all of the fluid
3. bleed the brakes using the bleeder screws in this order
A) right rear
B) left rear
C) front right
D) front left

 

Everything is good, except you do not need to remove the caliper. Once the pins are out, push on the brake pad to gain a little room(but not much, and remove or loosen the cap on the fluid resivoir first). Then the brake pads should lift right out. Once the pads are out, clean up the pistons before pushing the rest of the way in so you're not pushing crud into the caliper bore.

I have also found that doing one pad at a time helps greatly. If you take both pads out at the same time, when you collapse one set of pistons on one side, the other side will want to push out. So I pull one pad, clean, collapse pistons, put new pad in. Then do the other pad.

BTW, to remove the caliper there is two 13mm bolts with 12pt heads(12 pt socket only) on the backside holding it on.

And if I remember correctly from you're other thread, you do know it takes dot-4 fluid.?

 

From the RAVE: (credible source)

Preparation
WARNING: Before bleeding the brake system refer to general brake service practice. See General Brake Service
Practice
• During bleed procedure, brake fluid level must not be allowed to fall below the MIN level. Keep reservoir topped to the MAX level.
• To bleed the hydraulic circuits four bleed nipples are provided, one at each caliper.

1. MANUAL BLEED PROCEDURE.

Complete circuit bleed
1. Disconnect battery negative lead.
2. Fit bleed hose to any caliper bleed screw.
3. Dip free end of bleed hose into brake fluid in
bleed bottle.
4. Open bleed screw of caliper.
5. Depress brake pedal fully several times until fluid
is clear of air bubbles.
6. Keeping pedal fully depressed, tighten bleed
screw, then release pedal.
7. Repeat the above procedure on remaining three
calipers.
8. Fit all bleed screw protection caps.
9. Check/top-up fluid level when bleeding is
complete. See Fluid Level Check / Top-Up

It doesn't say it here in the RAVE, but I thought the order mattered?

 

Before compressing the pistons make sure you have enough room in the MC for the fluid displacement. Or attach the bleeder hose and open the bleeder valve while compressing the pistons.
It depends on the vehicle, but I always start at the furthest from the MC, which is driver side rear on LHD D1.

 

Furthest away to closest is the order bleeding any brakes.

 

Okay thanks for the tip, and yes I do know it is DOT 4. I don't exactly know which way the brake pad "pulls out" but I think I can figure it out. Usually I will just remove the caliper and then change the brake pads.

Thanks also, I have the RAVE I was just double checking.

I don't know what LHD is (I'm guessing Left Hand Drive?) but I think the farthest is Passenger Rear right? Since the MC is right in front of the driver the Passenger Rear sounds like it would be the farthest. To back that up Mike also told me Passenger Rear.

 

yes LHD is left hand drive and yes pass rear first.

 

You can change them that way, but to remove the caliper, the brake line needs disconnected, but since you're bleeding anyway, it don't really matter.

The pads pull out the big opening on top where the pins go through

 

When they say furthest from the MC they mean the longest plumbing run from the MC. If you look at how the plumbing is routed you will see that the drivers side rear is the furthest from the MC.

The lines are routed to the right rear, at the diff (the diffs are off-center so they line up with the low point on the transfer case), then a line goes to the right rear brake and another longer line goes to the left rear brake, making it the furthest from the MC.
Not all that difficult to figure out really, if you get under the car and look.

 

When I changed the brakes the front brakes had a brake pad that had a wire attached.. I couldnt find out what I attach that wire to so I cut it with some wire cutters...

What was it for? Should I return those brakes??