Wicked awesome thanks for the link and help.

 

No prob. I love tech info like that. My other favorites are the window deforst brake light trick, and the Jag V12 motor mounts replacement.

There's also a chance that its leaking where the round metal parts(the ones the grommets sit in) meet the horizontal cylinder. Sorry for the crappy description. I had a MC leaking there, fortunately I found a used one for about $35.

 

S*** instead of being on the forum I should be outside and getting things done. I will though. Actually funny that's easy to understand as that is the best way I know how to describe things and that's what Ill do, clean it up pretty good and check out where my problem is. Try the few tips I got and see what it is. I need to fix the AC switch that I don't know how to pull out also that its starting to get warm here. I have a few things I need to get my a** working on.

Thanks!

 

I had the same problem the week after I bought the '95 Disco and it also looked like the seals were leaking.. Mine turned out to be the reservior cap/seal (leaking) along with the internal seals going on inside the master cylinder itself (audible/squishy pedal).. New assembly (reservior and MC together) installed, brake fluid force bled and problem was solved.

Chris

 

HOLY HELL and I paid that much for the res and seals! i looked forever for better deal.

 

Check the wheels for brake fluid.
Our 1997 had brake fluid on the left front wheel
for about two years.
Then the master cylinder TOTALLY FAILED.
And no brakes.

Solution was replace front calipers on both wheels.
Then new master cylinder..

----
Things were find in the rover world for us.
Then the brakes began to squeal.
So, all 4 rotors replaced.
and all pads replaced with "mystery pads" from Mark's Automotive in Kirkland WA.
Mark's knows the secret sauce of pads that will not squeal.
Never told me what those pads were as I never asked.

 

Thank you for all the help. I appreciate it. I will be removing the parts from my parts truck. Since this is my first time messing with the MC any tips would help so I don't mess it up.

 

So I went this weekend and I got out the servo unit and fluid reservoir. It wasn't as difficult as I thought it would of been, even though getting the lines off the unit was difficult to turn it was freezing though I didn't like that part. Feeling pretty good now get the seals and get mine done. :-)

 

I think you mean the master cylinder w/reservoir...true?

As suggested, spray your leaking one with brake clean and let it dry. Then apply the brakes several times and see if you see any leaks. If not, then drive it around some, over some speed bumps would be good if some are near, then stop and check for leaks.
It could be leaking from the line fittings, between the reservoir and MC or from the reservoir cap.
If it's the fittings (which would probably leak by just applying the brakes) tighten them some and repeat your tests. If it's the cap, try the cap from your donor. If it's between the MC and reservoir don't try to use the reservoir from your donor. Removing it and reinstalling it could just make matters worse.

Instead, clean the donor reservoir good with brake clean, allowing it to fully dry. Then disassemble the bore of the MC and clean everything with brake clean and inspect the bore. If it looks to be in good shape, no rust, lubricate the parts with new brake fluid and reassemble and install the entire unit in your rover.
If the bore of the donor looks bad, then go ahead and try swapping just the reservoir from your donor since you have nothing to loose.

If that doesn't fix the issue, given the age of your Rover, I'd get a complete new MC w/reservoir.
Removing your leaking MC, flush your brake system well with new fluid. I use a turkey baster to remove as much of the old fluid as I can, then add new, and start flushing. I have a pressure bleeder so it's a lot easier (and doesn't slosh the fluid back and forth in the lines like pumping the pedal does), but you can do it by pumping the pedal.

For the squishy brakes, assuming it's not your MC, the flexible hoses swell up inside as they age. When you apply the brakes part of the pedal effort is used to re-expand then hoses' ID before the remaining pressure goes to the calipers.
There is one hose for each front wheel and two at the diff at the rear.

 

Advance Auto has CRC Brakleen 2 for $7 at the moment.