Your insight please on another item that has been popping up. I am getting a somewhat random "chime", a solid high-pitched tone that seems to come on (sometimes) when I first start it up, right after the normal startup chimes. It will go out after I put it into gear, but also seems to be related to me moving in my seat ( or just the movement of the truck). It also comes on at times, when I come to a stop, but goes out if I let up pressure on brake pedal to almost enough to stay stopped.
I do have SRS, Service Engine, and Anti-Lock indicators lit up, but they have been since I bought it. Previous owner said they have been on for awhile and he has never had this problem. I have also replaced a few blown fuses that were blown when I bought it. Any thoughts? Russ

 

Most likely the neutral alarm for the transfer case. When you hear the sound push on the TC lever...bet it stops. Then move the TC lever from high to low a few times.

 

Thanks - I'll check it out! Russ

 

there is a relay by the passenger footwell < I believe, that controls that...I just unplugged mine to shut it up

 

Right on,xceller8 - it appears to be the transfer case switch - pushing towards neutral turns it off. I would like to get to it and adjust/replace it (just because I am a greenhorn with Rovers and haven't quite trained myself in the fine points of Roverness ). Is it reachable through the console area or from underneath using Braille methods?
Chime seems to be upper left of dash - do you know which "relay" I would be looking for, or I should say, what is it's purpose /circuit it controls? Russ

 

Update- a recent trip back from Salt Lake almost got ugly with the chime going non-stop and no amount of shifter movement would stop it. It seems to originate from the MFU (behind drivers fuse block). I pulled console off today and found the foam insulation bunched-up around the transfer case shifter and now it only takes a small nudge on shift lever to stop noise - possibly the foam was putting a preload on the lever - but reading through the RAVE Elec Manual, I have more questions.
The gearbox can be shifted into neutral with the auto trans lever in drive, which should be impossible. I need to find the interlock relays and verify signals there, but my question now is - is it necessary for the MFU to have that signal? Could I bypass the interlock ground and do away with MFU bells? Does the MFU do anything more than ring bells? What's the best way to simplify this interlock system without pulling gearbox to remove solenoid? This MFU function seems a bit vague in my searches - HELP!

 

It's always best to hit it where it lives. Removing the console and junk takes some time and removing the cover plates on the tunnel suck but once done it's a straight shot to the switch and all the garbage they call a shifter. I've done it so often I don't even bother using a console anymore and the cover plates are screwed to the tunnel, no more pop rivet fest. Everyone gets to clean that up when they buy a new used high mileage Disco, didn't you know that? You can try the reach around method from underneath but I doubt you'll accomplish much except a slap in the face (old dirt and grease).

 

He said 'reach around'.............

 

That was all I needed to convince me! I wasn't sure I could see it all from the top - I'll drill them rivets and fix this! Thanks guys! Russ

 

The first thing I see under the tunnel covers is an open transfer shift lever pivot - is there supposed to be a smaller boot over this 4-bolt area or is the pictures showing the upper boot I've already removed? Or what fix have you found for sealing that up?
It appears to me that the only switch involved with the chime going off is the X175 Position Switch -especially when the chime goes away when transfer box shift lever is pushed toward Neutral/forward - unless someone has any further insight. I've got a little degrease working now before I try adjusting/removing the switch. I also want to improve the shifter lube/boot situation before putting it all together again. Russ