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Blower motor continue to run for 10 seconds after ignition is switched off.

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Old 06-13-2014, 07:08 PM
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Default Blower motor continue to run for 10 seconds after ignition is switched off.

I hope someone here could help me on this strange issue....
1998 D1, blower working properly for the past 6 months, but this week, it started acting weird.

With key in running position, turn blower on to 1,2 or 3, blower working fine. Then switch off ignition and take the key out. The blower will continue to run for approximately 10 seconds, the blower relay(the one housed in a rubber mount, 5 wires), will click and shuts off.
During the time when the blower is running with the key out, if I switch the fan to 4, or switch on the AC, or just push the recirculation button, or disconnect the blower motor connector, I could hear the blower relay clicks and it shuts off right away.
If the blower is at 4, this "delay running" doesn't happen, it shuts off right away when I turn the key off.

Not sure if it is a fluke, this happened a few times this week: When I exited the vehicle while the blower is still running with the key out, I closed the door and tried to lock the doors with my keyfob. It won't respond until the blower motor stops.

Here is what I tried so far:
- Swapping the blower relay with a known good one from my RRC, it acts the same. I tried the D1's relay on the RRC, no issue, blower shuts off when key turns to off. So the blower relay is not the problem.
- All fuses checked, all good.
- Disconnect the power door lock connectors at the green alarm/power door lock ECU. Make no difference.
- All the speeds of the blower motor is working properly.
- For a moment, I though perhaps the MFU is doing this since a 10 seconds delay sounds like the dome light delay, but all dome light working properly and opening/closing doors doesn't make any difference.

Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
 
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Old 06-18-2014, 10:18 AM
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You will have to pull the center of the dash off and pull the ac cluster out and see if the switch wires are melted or the switch its self has any signs of burn marks on them. I had to replace mine in the 96. The plug and the pig tail were burnt and melted. Be very careful when you pull the dash apart the center trim around the controls were not made out of very good plastic. I have gone threw three bezels. Also remember your control cable position when you put it back together it has to go back how it came out or your **** will not work right.
 
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Old 06-20-2014, 05:45 PM
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Thanks. I did that this afternoon. I even disassembled the blower switch and clean it out even though it was not pitted. Checked all the harnesses as far as I could reach and no burns or melts. All connectors are ok as well.
I swapped out the blower harness (the harness underneath the blower assembly in the passenger footwell, it consists of the harness for the blower motor, blower relay, recirculation solenoid, blower resistor, blower control, 10A cooler fuse, connector to the fan control) with my RRC one and still same issue.
Swapped out the blower resistor and made no difference.
I could see that some of the harness goes around the back of the blower assembly, which is impossible to reach unless completely disassemble the dash. Perhaps there is a short somewhere back there but I doubt that since usually, the connectors got the highest resistance and if the wiring is running at high amps, usually the connectors will melt first before the wire does?
I also tried with the recirculation solenoid/motor disconnected and it doesn't make any difference.
Which harness did your's got melted?
Thanks again!
 
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Old 06-20-2014, 07:47 PM
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Speed switch was fried on mine. Try checking your fuse under the hood in the fuse panel behind the battery the blower ac fuse is located there see if there is an issue with it could have a short there.
 
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