as you clearly dont trust me, maybe the internet will help:

http://www.tatasteeleurope.com/file_...ng%20Steel.pdf




"spring steel" is a thing - i promise...
in fact theres an entire field of engineering just around material selection. it isnt just "pour some hot stuff in a mold and make it spring shaped" :P

 

lmao! :d

 

Never said it was that simple. And never said I don't trust you. But at a molecular level, it will never be the same as it was before.

Anyway, if you want the one i removed from mine let me know.

 

Spoke to Justin this morning...common issue. Just disconnect them or get the longer sway bar links. I think eventually, I am going to get the longer links.

Okay...tried it already...couldn't wait....All I can say is....wow...didn't know I can lean over the rear like that.....

It didn't tip over or anything, but it sure did lean more than usual......just trying to corner the old fashion way.........

 

What "links"? Did Justin know you have a D1? Usually there are some spacer blocks to drop the sway bar down futher. The D2's use links I believe. Honestly, I would just ditch them. Crawling under your truck everytime you want to off road is a PITA. Then you have to somehow hold up the disconnected sway bar, usually with a bungee, which usually breaks. Remove the sways and never look back.

 

Yeah...Justin knows my Disco. He advised that a 2" longer REAR link will work. He mentioned that others are using it with success. With the longer links, the sways will no longer bind during articulation.

Going to order them during the week. I need those rear sways working.....

 

Glad to hear you resolved it.

 

Post up a pic of these links when you get them. I'm curious to see what they look like and how they work.

 

Holy cow, our trucks are similar

 

im assuming just a longer section that connects the bar to the rear axle...

wheel, did you ever end up running without the bar?

are you keeping the front bar on?