I need to know how many feet of tubing I need to replace all the brake lines on the rover. A number for each wheel would be nice haha, when I replaced both front calipers and tried to bleed the brakes I found a leak on the left side of the truck. Fun stuff...not really.

 

Or should I just cut the broken section out, buy about a foot of tubing, and use a flare fitting?

 

Get thee a tape measure. If you can replace a piece of line from end to end, that is best. If you think the bends are going to be next to impossible to duplicate, you can measure to a good spot on the line, cut it, insert threaded nut, flare, and join the old and the new with a union.

NEVER repair brake line with a compression fitting!!!!!

Most auto parts stores carry bake lines in 12", 20", 20", 40", 52", and 60" lengths.

 

While you're at it you would be better to replace them all. Plan a whole weekend to do it that way you'll probably have enough time.

If you want this to be easier buy a whole roll of steel brake line, which is about 10$ for 60' if I remember right. A flaring kit and a pipe cutter, if you're fancy and want real bends you can also buy a small pipe bender for under 20$.

 

NAPA sells the galvinized brake lines in 25' coils. The preflared lines in assorted lengths are just regular steel. You can buy a roll of tubing, flaring tool, fittings, cutters, and a bender for under $100 and should be able to do most all of the lines.

 

What diameter is the tubing? And to be honest guys I was just going to pay somebody to do this.. I've never messed with brake lines before haha. I had a guy say $65 for all of them as long as I bring the material.

 

Who says you even need to follow the original routing for the tubing?

Keep in mind when it was originally installed, that phase of the assembly would have been completed when the vehicle was a naked frame traveling down an assembly line.

I replaced my entire fuel lines from the tank to the filter to the fuel rail and back to the tank. I did not even attempt to follow the original routing but developed my own improved routing as I went. One 25 foot rool was adequate with a few inches to spare for the fuel lines. They were 5/16 inch. The brake line is smaller. Not sure if it is 1/4 or 3/16.

I used a measuring tape and allowed extra then fed the tubing from the rear cargo area forward until I was done.

Remember, the more you do yourself, the more you learn dude. Use a pair of calipers or micrometer to measure the OD. Learn how to use them.

 

The brake lines just go from the master cylinder to the brake calipers correct?

 

No, have you gotten underneath and looked to see what you need to do?

There is a proprotioning valve mounted underneath near the rear axle.

Get underneath with a flashlight and see what is there, or is that too much trouble for you?

 

Like Danny mentioned, you do not need to follow the original routing. Did a few "tucks" to hide the lines, just need to remember not to put them in harms way or near too much heat. I used a wire to mock up the difficult area, and used it as a template.

As mentioned, get all the tools, roll of galvinized tubing and fittings. NAPA has it all. It is not as bad as you think. Once, you do the first one, the rest is easy, just take your time. Measure and check your angles 3x, cut once.