DAP is too high.
Disco I DA241340S +2" S/S Brake Line Kit

I went with Paragon Performance because they had 25" long lines for more suspension travel.
The OP lost a hard line it sounds like though.

 

Yeah apparently if you call AB and ask if they have the part for the rear hard lines they will tell you they dont have them. Rovers North said they would be around 300 bucks but they would take two weeks. But if you go to the AB website they have this part#ABP214B which is the entire brake line kit for 180. It has all the fittings and its Teflon coated nickel

 

Huh?? This?
Land Rover Brake Pipe Parts And Kits - Discovery Brake Pipe Kit
It looks like a bunch of coiled hard lines. Why not just run to the store and buy a straight piece of hardline with fittings already on for $5-7???

 

I'm sorry for hurting your feelings.

 

Haha, butthurt!

 

Well I figured I would just replace all of them. Because im sure if I just replace the ones that burst then the front ones would go next. And sometimes convenience is worth the extra cash. Plus up here its about $25 for each line that I would need for the rear plus whatever for the front. Plus I need to replace the pads and rotors and my front rh side caliper is seized. So I am already gonna have the truck up on blocks. Go big or go home.

 

Wow, what are we in fourth grade here? Oh snap, burrrrnnn....

We are all just trying to help out here, and I for one am trying to keep the board free of the whole disco mike "any answer different from my answer is wrong" dynamic that seems to prevail. The post questioned my veracity as if I was making up some bs to steer somebody wrong and give them bad info relating to their inquiry.

The fact remains, copper nickel is vastly superior to whatever questionable alloy of stainless they are making brake lines out of these days. Ss brake lines WILL rot eventually regardless of people's misguided assumptions about the corrosive resistance of said material. 25 years of experience working in the naval shipbuilding industry tells me that cu/ni is more durable and better suited for the application.

I could care less what you think, and even less about what you put in your truck. But variety of opinion is what makes for good collaboration. There are no right answers here for the most part, just opinions. Every one is valid; it is for the op to decide what is worthwhile and what is not.

 

Lighten up, Francis. It was a joke, and has been a running joke on this and other Rover forums. If I was trying to be dick I wouldn't have put the smiley face on there.

As far as SS lines I was referring to the flexible ones not hard lines, and I do believe I stated that. But if you can point me to some Copper/Nickel flexible lines I'd be interested in looking at them. Also, most of these trucks will rot out long before a SS hard line would anyways.

Don't take yourself so seriously. Tom has been around for a while and knows his stuff. And the link you put up isn't for that great of a flaring tool. I've done it before and the cheap kits work a couple times but after that they suck.
And I was just joking, so relax.

 

WTF?
First, how is, "I've never seen ISO bubble flare tools at Sears, but maybe they have them" questioning your veracity? None of the Sears stores near me carry them.
Second, you didn't say you got a tool that does ISO bubble flares, that that's what Rover's use, or provide a link to the tool (I've seen a lot of people try to jerry rig them with double flare tools).
Third, I didn't even mention tube material, you'd already said CuNi, which I agree with and always recommend.

There was a time, not that long ago, that ISO Bubble flare tools were really hard to find.
A simple, "Yeah, that's what I got at Sears." would have been fine, rather than getting bent out of shape because someone provided some missing information.