Hey everyone,

I’m going to be replacing the rotors, brake pads, and brake lines on my 99’ D1 SD. Anyone have any input about quirks, odd-ball parts that are needed?

 

The kit from A-B is pretty comprehensive. The only 'optional' item is to upgrade the hub seal to the one used on Defenders which is part number RTC3511. Now if you want to replace your front calipers you upgrade to Defender 110 (solid rotor) or Defender 90 (vented rotor) and get some better stopping power.

 

what about the Defender calipers is better?

Thanks for the help!

 

Larger pistons and pads. I'd upgrade to Defender 110(not NAS) rear calipers too, the pads are retained with pins not janky clips.

 

Where did you get the 110 calipers? They work well?

 

brake lines: assuming you mean the hardlines too:
you will break all the plastic retaining clips getting the old lines out - so you'll want to order those clips.
when shaping the hardlines my method was to zip tie the original line to the (unrolled) rolled line (at the longest segment) and work my way out from the middle - zip tie after each completed curve to prevent a huge screwup.
you will need to save the single 13mm line head at the ABS - in hindsite I could have re used all the 10m heads but they were easy to obtain
I used about 65+ feet of copper nickle alloy line to redo every line in my 98

the week spot for the brake lines is under firewall drivers side - there is a coupler - that seems to be where the get hit with the most debis/road salt/water etc... So if you werent planning on doing the hardlines - I would do a thorough inspection

 

lrdirect.com
They work very well because the pads are properly retained and dont get all cockeyed in the caliper like stock.

 

Hey DiscoNewb!

I am newer to the community here and I wanted to share with you that I came on here today to compile and announce to the group that I recently have acquired a 1999 Discovery 1 SD in ; White just like yours. It just so happens that just today I actually started the exact project you are researching.

Some background, My bethrothed and I recently bought a second Discovery to accomodate the fact that front end of her Mazda CX-9 is rotting out and has a high probability of mechanical failure due to metal fatigue. We found a single owner garage stored 99' D1 SD with 93k miles on it. Turns out she loves me and we have been having a good time working on my D2 during these covid of times. The vehicle is for her to make it through winter and after we pay for a wedding we will reassess purchasing a newer vehicle for her, and I eventually get to start moddin' it and upgrading it for offroading. So try to keep in mind my intentions for current repairs are mechanically oriented for the purpose of returning it back to a safe, "factory issued" daily driver.

The parts I ordered:
- Atlantic British's D1 EBC Slotted Rotors, Brake Hardware, Item: 9985EBC, and it came with the following components

Joint Washer - Drive Member - Qty : 4, Item: 571752.

• This is the gasket that goes between the drive member and the rotors
• For a detailed picture it is in the Workshop Manual 54 Front Axle and Final Drive - Front Hub Assembly; Hub Components, Hub Component 5. Drive member joint washer.

• No identifiable company markings on the packaging.
• After removal of the wheels, upon inspeciton my front right drive member and rotor had a seem of silver gasket goo. (I assumed they did not have one on hand and made a gasket.

3GD Series Sport Performance Brake Rotors, Front Pair, Item: FRC7329EBC

• I didn't get to changing these out. I will explain more later...

3GD Series Sport Performance Brake Rotors, Rear Pair, Item: FRC

• I didn't get to changing these out. I just started on the front and hit a snag.

Washer Lock - Qty: 4 - Item: FTC3179

• For a detailed picture it is in the Workshop Manual 54 Front Axle and Final Drive - Front Hub Assembly; Hub Components, Hub Component 8. Lock Washer.
• These are single use.

Observations:

• Manufactured in IN (India)
• EAC Parts England - www.eacparts.com

Hub Oil Seal Inner - Qty: 4 - Item: 4785

• For a detailed picture, it is in the Workshop Manual, 54 Fron Axle and Final Drive - Description, Front Axle, Component 7. Inner hub seal.
• For a detailed picture, it is in the Workshop Manual, 51 Rear Axle And Final Drive - Description, Rear axle hub, Hub Component 7. Inner hub seal.

• Individually packaged with no identifiable manufacturing company on the packaging.

Hub Oil Seal with ABS Rear - Qty: 2 - Item: FTC5268

• For a detailed picture, it is in the Workshop Manual, 51 Rear Axle and Final Drive - Description, Rear axle hub, Component 8, Outer hub/axle shaft seal.

• Country of Origin - UK
• Manufacturer is Corteco, Freudenberg Group, www.corteco.com

Brake Hardware for Rear Pads - Qty: 1 - Item: STC8574

• For a detailed picture, the components are in the Workshop Manual, 70 Brakes, Repair, Rear Brake Caliper Assembly - Component 3; Pad retaining springs, Component 9; Retaining pin

• Manufacturer is Bearmach
• Made in Denmark
• To FishEH's point, these are just really long cotter pings to be a physical stop for the rear brakes. I saw some upgrade posts regarding the use of Non-NAS Defender 110 rear calipers for this reason. It seems that procuring these at the moment may be a challenging, and to go back to my intent of this vehicle and my experience level, I think standard normal *** calipers will be more than good. I would love to reassess when it is time to upgrade after the vehicle is ready for offroad upgrades. If you intend to offroad it would interesting to reasearch the impact of better stopping in the rear would be with the 110 Calipers. I am sure it is superior as FishEH has pointed out. I would recommend using your judgement on your technical skills of these vehicles. After some experience with working on my D2 I can confidently say that sometimes maybe for the sake of learning it is best to keep it simple. You can always redo it later .

Brake Hardware Kit for Front Brake Pads - Qty: 1 - Item: STC8575

• For a detailed picture, the components are in the Workshop Manual, 70 Brakes, Repair, Front Brake Caliper Assembly - Component 3; Antirattle springs, Component 4; Pad retaining pings, Component 5; Split [Cotter] pin.

• Genuine Part from Land Rover.

Brake Pads Rear - Qty: 1 - Item: STC9188EBCX

• Both of my D2 and D1 will be running these. I don't know if they are good. I have coupled both with vented slotted rotors.
• They are the 6000 series and they have sensors on them.

Brake Pads Front - Qty: 1 - Item: STC9191EBCX

I have also purchased all new calipers from AB, for which I know they are bit pricey but in our current state and the constant state of motion in both our lives it is actually way easier for us to budget stuff like that rather than spending the time and effort researching the best deals. If you have time by all means look around and get the best price for what fits your needs. It sounds pompous to just purchase whatever whenever, but we have dual income no kids in the middle of the pandemic. There's nothing to do. We can't go to local Wisconsin bars to watch our Packers, so yeah we are very fortunate. But generally speaking, after seeing the kit provided and all the stuff I think it could be pieced together cheaper with better parts if you have time. Also purchased was the brake pipe kit. Get a pipe bender. Just before I read your post I was researching how to adequately bend brake pipes, and honestly I think with some patience and a steady hand, changing all the brake pipes within the kit will be time consuming but relatively easy I believe. Buy new Caliper Bolts. Just get new bolts. Mine were rusted to hell. Still easy to break though. Make a judgement call on the dust shields. I got new ones because of my alignment to OG specs. Buy some cheap hose clamps from the store of your choosing to pinch the hose lines to mitigate loss until you are ready to perform the brake piping. You are going to need ring pliers for the circlips in the front hubs.

So here was my day,
I was only able to get both calipers off the front today. We do not need to have this vehicle functioning immediately, so it hasn't been driven since we purchased the vehicle. The brakes are seized up, and need to be overhauled. So we both spent the day with the front end up finally taking the time to inspect under the carraige so to speak. I discovered the immense ammount of grime left from the previous owner and generally took a peak around.

Got the vehicle jacked up, wheels off, cleaned up the general area for the front hubs (mostly just cleaning up old gunk), popped the dust cap off the drive member, removed the circlip using a set of ring pliers, removed the shim(s) behind the circlip, removed the 5 bolts securing the drive member to the rotor, and after looking at it immediately upon removal of the drive member realized that, "Oh boy, are we going to have to replace the wheel bearings?" The answer after a peak in the manual, forums here, and common sense is yes.

If you haven't changed the wheel bearings and don't know the last time the wheel bearings were done... Change them. I saw a few people saying that you can gently make it happen, but I forsee that going horrible for me. The good news is, upon facing a roadblock I strolled down to my local Autozone and was suprised to find that there were 2 wheel bearings on the shelf. The bad news, The retaining nut to extract the wheel hub and the rotor is a big boy socket, like 52 mm or something like that? I am sure the nut can be broken without it but how would it be tightened? So yeah, I was unable to find an adequately sized socket for the nuts to removed the rotor and wheel hub. In addition, to needing a socket, a dial caliper gauge is required apparentely to measure the run out of the shaft to the approprirate distance. I am not too sure if that is true or not but since I am changing the height of the rotor.... I am assuming... that there might be some slight shimming to be done. So yeah, check out the manual and see the part of about the retaining nuts, dial calipers, and distance of run out of the shaft? Maybe someone else could comment on it.

I know it was a lengthy read... Maybe it was worth it? Reach out if you have questions. I have pictures as well.

I purchased these because I want to have like for like on both the D1 and D2. I am always willing to change and try new things but I wanted to harmonize between the two vehicles.

 

You don't need a dial caliper for the wheel bearings. There's a procedure in the RAVE. Tighten to 60 or something ft/lbs, back the nut off 90 degrees, tighten to 14 or something ft/lbs. Spin the hub while tightening the nut.

 

Yeah, this part is more art than anything else. The object is to get the bulk of the grease compressed into a thin film so the hub has no play, but is not over tight.

Here is a video on the entire procedure. It is really pretty simple.