G'day peeps

I was hoping I knight be able to get help with disgnosing another problem that has surfaced with my 96 Disco 1 v8 3.1L.

I had her offroad last week up at the local recreation park and all was going well, when I parked up with her idling to go spot my mate coming up a somewhat technical hill.
we got him to the top and I got in my bus and gave her a little rev as you do.
I got back out because I needed to talk to my mate, and after a minute or so the revs started dropping slowly. In the space of about 3-5 seconds the revs dropped right down and she died.
I haven't been able to start her since and all attempts to do so via key start or roll start just result in massive backfires and Carrots blowing out the back.
I have checked spark and fuel pressure, Air intake and all fuses seem fine too.
I'm just hoping I haven't skipped a tooth or something with the chain.

Any help would be legendary!!!

 

I know you said you checked fuel pressure but revs slowly dropping sounds like fuel starvation. I can’t imagine that the timing chain slipped a tooth as it sat there idling.

 

Any ideas then??
The fuel filter was replaced not to long ago.
tried some start ya bastard down through the plenum but still no go. Just the usual backfire.
I have noticed one of the wires going into the throttle control valve looks a bit worse for wear. Could It be that??
It's right near the plug though so id probbaly have to replace the plug too.

 

If the circuit for the IACV is complete (no corrosion), and there is not a short circuit (bare wires not touching), it shouldn't matter if the plastic insulation is missing.

Most threads I read about crank-no-start end up pointing to the crank position sensor (CKP). That is down on the driver's side bell housing and can get overheated by the exhaust and fail, and that can happen at idle with no air flow. There are lots of discussions about this in the forum, including suggestions about heat shielding. I bolted on a piece of sheet aluminum cut and shaped from an old license plate. I used a spare threaded bolt hole that was there to attach the shield.

My new sensor came from NTK. The CKP is not hard to replace if you have the right sockets and extensions. I believe the symptom of a failed CKP sensor is no pulses to the injectors, but we should check with other forum members. A noid light can check for pulses to the injectors.