A/C on only leads to overheating
Hello,
I recently flushed my coolant system, and replaced every component to it (hoses, t-stay, water pump, etc) and did the proper bleeding of the system (leave it running for 30 min with reservoir cap off and rad plug off until it bubbles over as per another thread) and have ZERO heating issues while driving.
recently we hit a heatwave and I tried the A/C only to see on the instrument cluster the temp rising from halfway to 3/4... and the moment I turn off the A/C, temps drop down to the halfway point on the instrument cluster and stay there.
I checked the both fuses for the fan clutch, and the seem fine. The viscous fan clutch feels good (like peanut butter) and when the vehicle is running, it is on.
Any ideas what might be the culprit here?
should I try one more half hour of bleeding the coolant system again in case there’s some air pockets that didn’t make it out?
I recently flushed my coolant system, and replaced every component to it (hoses, t-stay, water pump, etc) and did the proper bleeding of the system (leave it running for 30 min with reservoir cap off and rad plug off until it bubbles over as per another thread) and have ZERO heating issues while driving.
recently we hit a heatwave and I tried the A/C only to see on the instrument cluster the temp rising from halfway to 3/4... and the moment I turn off the A/C, temps drop down to the halfway point on the instrument cluster and stay there.
I checked the both fuses for the fan clutch, and the seem fine. The viscous fan clutch feels good (like peanut butter) and when the vehicle is running, it is on.
Any ideas what might be the culprit here?
should I try one more half hour of bleeding the coolant system again in case there’s some air pockets that didn’t make it out?
Gotta have both efans for the AC operational. If not the uncooled condenser heat gets sucked directly into the radiator. 96 Toyota Corolla efan for the AC = identical motor. Just cut the harness and splice em onto the OEM connectors.
What I found was that Corolla part PM9115 is $51.99 at autozone, and another person in that thread replied that the Hayden 3670 automotive electric fan does the same job... it’s also $58 at Summit... would it be wise to just got for the slightly larger Efan unit since the price difference is marginal?
You only use the Corolla Efan motor. You keep your original housings and fan blades.
If you have any salvage yards near you you can remove the efan motor from the Toyota housing and usually walk out for 5.00 per efan motor.
If you have any salvage yards near you you can remove the efan motor from the Toyota housing and usually walk out for 5.00 per efan motor.
A new VDO Corolla fan motor is only $27 at RockAuto.
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VDO / CONTINENTAL PM9115 {#8855002020, 8855012130} Info
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Search for Part Number='PM9115'[Wholesaler Closeout -- 30 Day Warranty] ($26.89)

Price
VDO / CONTINENTAL PM9115 {#8855002020, 8855012130} Info
Category: A/C Condenser Fan Motor
Choose
$26.89
A larger fan may not be the best way to go. If you are set on using a substitute fan, then match the CFM flow rate or better. Using the stock fan blades with the Toyota motor should keep it cool, same speed, same airflow.
Might want to check that you have a complete fan shroud to keep the air going in the right direction.
Might want to check that you have a complete fan shroud to keep the air going in the right direction.
fan shroud and I hate to say it but a more aggressive fan clutch will help. Hayden 2991. It'll sound as if you are about to take off every time you get in motion but your engine will be cooler.
The other thing that helps my truck is to keep the engine speed between 1500-2000. that way the fan spins and water pump moves coolant. If I were able I would raise my idle more than factory setting when A/C is on.
The other thing that helps my truck is to keep the engine speed between 1500-2000. that way the fan spins and water pump moves coolant. If I were able I would raise my idle more than factory setting when A/C is on.
Did the Corolla fan motor thingy.
Worked very well. Might check for crap in the radiator and condenser fins. Used long air nozzle with a bend at the end. 125 psi.
Like Walt said, a more aggressive clutch would probably help but this dude can't abide with the howl as it is. Hate it. Swapping to electric when I can.
Worked very well. Might check for crap in the radiator and condenser fins. Used long air nozzle with a bend at the end. 125 psi.
Like Walt said, a more aggressive clutch would probably help but this dude can't abide with the howl as it is. Hate it. Swapping to electric when I can.


