Every D1 has some corrosion where the vertical part of the C pillar meets the wheel well. Mine is light and I would like to get in front of it. Is there a 'best practice' to stop it while it is very small? Is it as easy as using a wire wheel to remove rust, treat with anti-rust paint, prime, and paint body color + clear coat?

Is is mainly on the visible surface or does it generally rust all the way through the wheel well?

 

I am very lucky to say I've owned 2 Texas D1's and they didn't have a spot of rust anywhere on them. My current 95 D1 has nothing and after dealing with my 97 XD it's SUPER rare to find these days. That 95 isn't going anywhere for a long long long long time!!!!!! Rust in that area kinda meets in the middle especially in rainy/snow style climates. I'd strip and treat both area's and seal it very well.

 

"Is it as easy as using a wire wheel to remove rust, treat with anti-rust paint, prime, and paint body color + clear coat?" - this sounds like the best option, maybe use a brush or grit paper depending on the size of the rust spot.

 

Im in northeast US....
Get POR-15 (and the primer). Follow the instructions exactly. (they have kits that come with the primer etc. FYI)
Ive tried spray on rust treatments, chassy saver etc. - - dont waste your time.
I coated that area on my rover over 10yrs ago and just applied another coat about 2 yrs ago. Unless you cut out the rust it will always come back but coating it with POR-15 stopped it from progressing for 8+yrs.
I did not repaint mine. I just painted in straight lines so it wasnt so ugly - mainly b/c I knew I will need to do it again.

you may also want to take a look at the bottom of the B pillar under the plastic trim. (youll have to replace all the plastic push rivits FYI - though you prolly know that already) and look at where the front wings meet the firewall - if your adventurous.

 

whiskey....with the POR-15, does the area need to be stripped? Or does the product 'convert the corrosion'? I imagine the top coat of paint needs to go, correct?

 

Walt,
No does not need to be stripped to bare metal - but you need to remove all 'loose' material far enough back to ensure your exposing the extent of the rust. Yes it 'converts' the rust. It binds better to rust then bare metal.
Between a wire brush and a flat head screwdriver just scrape away all the loose material/paint. Basically it should look like surface rust prior to application no flaking loose material. I scuffed the surrounding paint with sand paper to help it bite. I cleaned it with alcohol (and pretty sure I washed it down with clean water too) prior to following the application instructions.
I know I re read the instructions a few times, IIRC some of the procedure is time sensitive.
You can get it a NAPA.

**Also, this stuff cures with moisture - so if you have other areas - best to plan it out and use as much as you can at once. After the can is open its shelf life is not long. Best practice for storage is upside down inside another paint can. However, from my experience dont by a big can and think you can store it - you really cant. Just buy enough for what you need now and expect the remainder will be waste - honestly.