Locate fuel rail, it is a metal pipe that runs front to back along both sides of engine. Fuel injectors connect to in and into the intake manifold, four on each side. Test valve on passenger side. This is between the valve covers and the center of the top of the engine.

 

I have found the pressure valve - no problems there. The big problem now is no spark.

I walked through the tests in the manual under "Lucas Constant Energy Ignition System - V8i" Everything tests fine until Test 4...then it says 2 check the ohms @ the pickup terminals in the body of the distributor. Reading should be between 2K and 5K. With my ohm meter connected and set in the 20,000 range - I get a reading of 3.17 - adjusting for the decimal (I can't use the 2K setting because it should read higher than that) I believe this is 3,170 ohms which is within the range.

The manual then says "If ohmmeter reading is correct, check all connections between pick up and amplifier, if satisfactory, fit new amplifier. If engine still does not start, carry out test 5." I don't have a new "amplifier" to put on - so I looked at Test 5 - and it is testing the lead from the ignition coil to the distributor for spark - there is no spark there. The logical conclusion (I think) is the ignition coil went out. Does this seem reasonable to you guys (that are way more experienced than I)? Makes sense to me, but I'm no expert.

Is there anything else I can check - fuse for the ignition coil maybe - that would be preventing the coil from sending spark to the distributor?

Also -one last question - if it was the starter would the engine even turn over?

Thanks again for all your help.

 

Amplifiers are famous for failing.... and would prevent spark from being produced in step 5. And the starter is the only thing that turns the engine until the fuel ignites.

Satellite fuse panel 1 under dash - fuse 3 runs coils. There are several fuses associated with cranking and charging - you'll see them in the RAVE electrical troubleshooting guide.

 

Sounds like the ignition module is toast.
I dont know if you can get one locally or not.
Now for me to be a jerk, you had problems 6 months ago, we tried to help you, you disappeared.
Now you need the truck running and you start your new job in the morning?
Should have been working on this 6 months ago.

 

You are right....The really sad part is that this is not the original problem that I was having. After I get it running, I still have to deal with the problem we started dealing with 6 months ago. I now have the fuel pressure gauge and a new fuel filter to put in it once I get it to fire.

The biggest reason for my procrastination was my budget the fact that I don't drive the vehicle very much, and I was a bit intimidated by the suggestions you guys were making, as I have no experience with Rovers, so I put it off. Lesson learned.

Thanks for your help...it is appreciated.

 

Besides price, what is the difference in this one:
Land Rover Ingnition Amplifier Module (Same Fit As Genuine Part # STC1184) | Land Rover Engine Parts

and this one:
RV-STC1184 - Amplifier 3-Pin RVRTC5089*

I am also planning on hitting my local junk yard before I purchase one online. Might get lucky.

 

Nothing that I can tell.
Getting one local, even used would get you back on the road.
If you can get a used one to get you going then buy a new one, install the new one and save the used one to keep as a spare as these are a common fail item.
They get heat soaked and as we all know electrical components do not like heat.
There is actually a relocation kit to put it on the fire wall out of the heat.

I have found that when I am not in a hurry that is the best time to tackle things I know little about, that leaves time for mistakes and extra research and parts ordering.

 

I think this one was moved. It's mounted on the firewall right behind the ignition coil - and the power steering fluid container. Kind of a pain to get to - but better than if it was on the distributor. Will pull it today - swing by the junk yard tomorrow and hopefully can find one. Will order a new one online. Local auto store not a choice - they are $218 @ Auto Zone - over $300 at O'Reilly Auto Parts....fricking ridiculous markup.

 

That is not the firewall, the fire wall is what separates the passenger cabin from the engine bay.
But yes, it sounds like it has been moved already.

 

If you are in the boneyard and find one of your type, may want to obtain the MAF sensor if it can be had cheap and put on the shelf. I paid $29 for one, they are around $900 at Rock Auto, even higher for the GEMS (later D1s) model from Airtex.