How did you ensure that you put the new one in in the same exact orientation as the original one was in?

If you did not ensure that, you may have it completely out of sync.

The fact it started right up is good. A significant knock sounds like it may possibly be preignition. Then again it could be something entirely different.

At least it did not try to run backwards!

 

At 6 Degrees - it fired and ran - but with the knock. At TDC - it wouldn't even start. Does this mean anything to anyone?

I am going to try 8 degrees.

 

By sight - I am pretty sure it is pre-ignition as it did not knock at all before.

 

Damn it - now it won't start. LOL. By the way - after I got it started, I did put a mark on the Distributor to mark the spot. Going to make sure my rotor is in the #1 position - it might be off a touch. Have to reset to scratch and hope I get lucky I guess. Grrrr

 

Ok - got it started again. Set it at 8 degrees BTDC - it fired. The knock is not as loud. Going to hook up the timing light and see what it is at at idle. One thing - when I turn the dizzy with it idling - the idle either goes faster or slower. I had it kind of dialed in right now, meaning if I turn it either way - the idle starts to slow down. Would this be a good starting point?

Thanks for all the help everyone. I don't have the money to pay someone to do this - and I love getting to know my Rover.

 

My baby is purring like a kitten. I think I just added a couple points to my man card!

Last question - Just want to double check. Is it supposed to be set @ 6 degrees BTDC? That's how I interpret the RAVE Manual...but want to make sure. That is what I have it set at now.

When it is warm - and it is at 6 degrees - there is no knock.

I can't wait to drive it now. Thanks for your help everyone.

 

What it actually needs to be set at will vary depending on engine wear, octane of fuel used, engine temp, blah blah blah...
You are supposed to adjust the timing at every tune up to account for engine wear.
As the timing chain, cam, lifters, etc. wear your timing will move, so 6 degree's BTDC when brand new many now need to be 8 degree's BTDC or ever more, or maybe less.
But now that she is running forget the book, hook up the vacuum advance and drive it.
Adjust the timing for or aft as needed to get her running what you think is best.
This will take several days worth of driving, maybe even a week to get her fine tuned.
Alittle spark knock while climbing a big hill is normal and wont hurt anything, but spark knock taking off from a stop light is not cool yo'.

 

OK - It's not running perfect. It still doesn't have much torque or power up hill under load. The good news is that I couldn't get it to throw the error code - so I think the initial problem may be resolved. If I try to floor it - I am getting a mlid back fire - and it gets "jumpy" like it's not getting enough fuel. I am thinking my timing setting is not right.

What I need to know is what the timing needs to be @ when Idle - and when I rev it. My tach does not work - so I can't have someone rev to an exact #. The best I can do is guestimate.

Right now - @ Idle - I am @ 6 degrees before. If I rev it - it goes to over 12 degrees before. (the markings range from 12 After to 12 before).

What I need to know is what range should I be at? Where should it be at idle - and where should it be @ say 2500 to 3000 rpm? I will adjust the timing again (now that I am an expert ) and then take it for a test drive and see if that is my issue.

 

Thanks - this answers my questions before I asked them. I think we both posted at the same time.

In my post above - does the lack of power sound like it could be the timing being off - based on my description of it being "jumpy" and the mild backfires?

One last question - it looks like the Vacuum advance hose can hook up to the front or the back of the vacuum advance. Right now I have it on the front - but it is a weird place for the connection - the back would be better, but I'm guessing that is an intake...is that right? Do I have it connected right? Sorry for all the questions?

 

The only Rover dizzy I worked on was "The Donor" and it only had one vacuum advance hook up, on the front.
If you have 2 blank one of them off.
Backfires means it is to far advanced (BTDC) and igniting the fuel before the intake valves are closed.
The faster the engine is spinning the farther BTDC the fuel needs to be ignited because the fuel burns at rate "X" no matter what speed the engine is running at.
So a faster moving piston has less time to compress the fuel before it starts its downward stroke so the fuel needs to be ignited sooner.

93 octane burns slower than 87 octane, all numbers in the book will be for high octane fuel.