I just bought a 98 LR that had sat unused for quite while. It stopped running with the previous owner. The fuel pump had a wiring problem and is now working, but the engine runs really poorly (low idle, fast idle, skips, etc). The codes below are present.

0300 – random misfire
0308 – cylinder 8 misfire
0307 – 7 misfire
0306 – 6 misfire
1317 – No OTC (DTC?) definition
1316 – No OTC (DTC?) found
1314 – No OTC (DTC?) found
0320 – Catalyst efficiency deteriorated (LH)

The guy at the parts store said that he believes that it may be the CC may be the problem. What do you smart folks think?

If it is clogged and needs replacing, can it just be removed (I live in a non-inspection state) without any ill effects?

What other causes, if not the CC, could be the problem(s)?

Thanks

 

I'd just pay the $150 to have a universal cat welded in, AFTER you fix whatever running problems there are. You could possibly cut the cats out, and then space the o2 sensors out with a spark plug non-fouler.

 

"You could possibly cut the cats out, and then space the o2 sensors out with a spark plug non-fouler."

A bit confused. Are you saying buy new ones then cut them out later ? or, if I cut them out that the O2 sensors will "space out" / cause problems.

 

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...decated-47085/

Just remove them, but weld in the new pipe cleanly as to not have any leaks or restriction. It'll run fine.

 

How about fixing your main problems first, like a full tune up with new 8 mm silicone wires, fuel filter and fuel pressure test, be surprised to see the difference it will make.
Sure you may need to deal with the cats depending on the state you live in and if you have to due yearly emission tests which you would fail.

 

I have a writeup on how to remove a cat

1997 Land Rover replace catalytic converter and head gaskets

 

Cut out the cats, no ill effect on how the engine runs but it will set off the check engine light for cat inefficeny.
To get around that like these guys said use a spark plug non fouler (AutoZone, like $5 each) of the correct size (your rear O2 goes inside it) and screw/weld it into the rear O2 bung, then reset the chcek engine light.
You need to start with a full tune up, GOOD plug wires and any spark plug you want.
Also clean the throttle body and the idle air control valve.
Clogged cats will make it run very very rough and have no power because of to much back pressure.
You can drop the y-pipe and run the engine straight pipe for a short bit to see if it runs better, if it does, remove cats, if not, not the cats.

 

A shade tree mech buddy looked under and was a bit confused by what he saw. He said it looked like only had 1 cat (Passenger side) and had what, to him, looked like a resonator (driver side). I looked also and they were obviously different. Passenger side was covered / wrapped by a sheet metal shroud that was basically cylidrical, but had flats and tapers. The outer edges had flanges, like when 2 halves come together. The color was the same typical color as standard exhaust pipe and muffler (sandy brown).
The driver side was black (maybe painted) and truly round, with squared ends. Kind of like a drum. It appreared to be positioned in a matching location to the other pipe.

Can anyone give me some explanation on this? I can come up with a lot of scenarios, be I don't know how it is supposed to be.

Thanks.

 

It's supposed to be like that. One cylindrical, one not. Have you downloaded the RAVE yet?

 

Here are all the parts to your exhaust.

Land Rover Discovery Exhaust Assembly - Fits 1994-1999 Land Rover Discovery

Land Rover Catalytic Converter (Same Fit As Genuine Part # ESR4106) For Defender 90 & Discovery I Vehicles At Atlantic British

As you can see there is one cat for each side of the y-pipe.
Then they go to one pipe, then the center muffler and then the rear muffler.