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Code 48 and a harsh shift

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  #11  
Old 04-12-2011 | 10:13 AM
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ok, so maybe not EVERYONE was stumped
 
  #12  
Old 04-12-2011 | 12:31 PM
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HOLY CRAP Cosmo! Talk about a ridiculous wealth of information!

I cannot say how much I truly appretiate that info. Which side of the intake manifold are you talking about? I do not have the truck with me as I am at work and the trans shifting issue is so bad I do not want to drive it until I get the cooler lines and replace the fluid. I think the trans may also have a clog in the cooler as I have a bulge in one of my trans cooler lines. Already priced out all the parts I need for the trans concern.

As for the stepper motor I am used to the german stepper system so LR is foreign to me. Any chance there is a photo somewhere for this?

-edit, I got off my lazy *** and found one on google.


The securing tabs broke off that when I tried releasing them to do the head gaskets. It is very possible that I plugged it back in backwards. I will check when I get home.
 

Last edited by ColoDisco; 04-12-2011 at 01:08 PM.
  #13  
Old 04-12-2011 | 12:56 PM
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using front and back and left and right terms in relation to the vehicle itself... the stepper motor is on the back side of the plenum. It however, screws into the right side (if you are sitting in the car looking toward the front) of the plenum...
Shoot me a PM with your cell and a good time to call if you'd like. I'll be good to talk anytime tonight after 4pm until 9pm (your time)... I'm on EST
 

Last edited by Cosmic88; 04-12-2011 at 01:09 PM.
  #14  
Old 04-12-2011 | 01:13 PM
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Thanks Cosmo. I will PM you my number.
 
  #15  
Old 04-12-2011 | 01:41 PM
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That's a pic of a RR Classic.. .I believe a 4.2 but YES! that is the IACV / Stepper motor.

Call ya later on.
 
  #16  
Old 04-12-2011 | 09:47 PM
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Default Base idle setting... Caution

Warning--- this setting is a last resort / step in the setup process of a rebuilt upper end. This process is not to be used if your idle is hunting all over or high / low. Check your engine thermistors, IACV, Ignition and O2 sensors first.


Base Idle Screw Setting


1. Turn off all electrical accessories and allow engine to idle with no engine load (i.e. a/c, fans, lights.... etc.) Allow engine to warm up.

2. Connect a separate tach for independent engine speed measurement and comparison.

3. close off / block the idle speed control air bypass hose. Either clamp hose securely or remove at throttle body end and block off both t-body hose fitting and IACV hose.

4. Your desired idle speed in this state should be 525 rpm. This is lower than the normal 700 rpm.

5. If idle speed is not correct, adjust idle speed screw until correct.

6. When set correctly, Reconnect IACV hoses.

7. reset code 48 either by pulling fuel injection fuse in engine compartment or by disconnecting serial mating plug at ECM. Fuse will erase all codes and plug disconnect should move on to next code if multiple codes exist.
This test will only be accurate if all other coditions are at optimum. Ignition, air:fuel mix and Vacuum lines / air intake system integrity must all be in proper spec range in order to set idle correctly. If the base idle is not set correctly then the other components will have to compensate in order to maintain the holy 700 rpm. In this case the component adjustment range is altered (not balanced). Don't end up chasing the ghost of Lucas.


 
  #17  
Old 05-05-2011 | 03:46 PM
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UPDATE!!!!

Thanks to Cosmo I have my CEL gone and thanks to alot of searching and some plain old "LOOK AROUND THE ENGINE STUPID" advice from myself I figured out the harsh shift.

First the CEL. Idle was set way too high as after I replaced my head gaskets I sealed up alot of vacuum leak on the intake. Esp where you need to apply sealant to the different layers of the intake. Reset the idle to spec, now she runs like a dream.

I might add she also passed emissions with flying colors. Not bad for 185,000 miles.

Now for the funky shifting concern.

Turns out the adjustment nut facing the throttle body which attaches the kick down cable to the bracket vibrated completely loose. Reaffixed the nut and adjusted accordingly. She shifts smooth as butter.
 
  #18  
Old 05-05-2011 | 04:01 PM
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Sweet news. I am really glad to know you were able to get it all sorted. The wild idle can lead many people astray but you beat the odds. Nice work my man.

FWIW... I am probably doing a Great Divide expedition in the next year or two... lots of planning and lots of prep time needed to get my Classic up to par for a trip like that. I figure the original expedition was done with RRC's so I must follow suit. When it comes closer I'll let you know and we'll have to hook up.

Congrats Brad!!
 
  #19  
Old 05-05-2011 | 04:07 PM
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Def Cosmo. How far are you planning on driving it? There are a few guys in my 4X club who have done it. I can get you some info if you like.
 
  #20  
Old 05-05-2011 | 04:14 PM
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Default All the way baby

Yes please... We plan to take the original route from start to finish as taken by Land Rover when they did the trip to promote the RRC. If you have waypoints and trail info that would be helpful. Not yet sure how much time we are budgeting but side trips would be cool in my opinion.
 


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