I've been trying to preemptively optimize my cooling system for the past two years. I was not entirely happy with temps at idle in hot weather with the A/C on.

First I installed a new fan clutch, new cap, and 180 T-stat. Very little impact.

Then I had the radiator re-cored and new coolant reservoir installed. This resulted in a 5-8 degree fall in operating temps when travelling down the road no matter if A/C was on or off. On the hottest days the truck cruises at 189.

The only remaining 'problem' is sitting at idle on hot days with the A/C on (in other words I have not been able to solve my original concern). When idling or in stop/go traffic I monitor temps with OBD monitor and adjust A/C accordingly.

Of note, when idling or in stop/go traffic, a little revving of the engine to circulate coolant and drive that fan is effective in reducing temps 5-7 degrees. I 'chicken out' at 210 and will uses throttle to cool the engine to 200-205 or simply turn off the A/C. Once under way the coolant temp drops to 190 within a couple of minutes.

Long story short, I believe you should re-core your radiator Toran. It is a $250-400 job depending on location. Well worth it IMO. I suspect your situation will be significantly improved.

 

That's IF you can find someone to do it. We live in a time where replacement radiators for most newish vehicles run $100-200. It doesn't make sense for radiator shops to keep up to practice recoring ones when most the time its cheaper to just buy a new one.
I can get a brand new Nissen radiator for my 96 D1 for under $300. It was $365 to have my stock radiator recored 8 years ago. :/

 

don't you guys think it's worth checking for exhaust gas in the coolant,i think i rented one for 20bucks that i got back when returned,at least he could eliminate a hg or block problem,and walt i've also been dealing with hotter than what most of you guys say your running temps are with parts that aren't that old

 

O-Reileys will test on premises for free all you have to do is buy the fluid for the tester I think it's around 8-10 dollars.

 

Thank you all for the recent feedback.
I will call around town as to where I can get the radiator re-cored.

There is an O-Reileys near by I will check out to see if there is exhaust gas in the coolant.

Between now and finding a place to do a radiator re-core, I will apply Savannah Buzz's
Another Homebrew Radiator Cleaner Method
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-method-55045/

I will keep you all posted on whats going on with the truck.
Thank you All!

 

FishEH has a very good point. New replacement radiator can be had for <$300. Not sure if it is a two or three row unit but at least it is all metal.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...187120&jsn=354

And cheaper versions with plastic side tanks can be had for less.

Testing the block (pressure) or coolant (for exhaust gas) is a good idea too. Mine tested all good.

 

Thanks.
Are these replacement radiators an exact plug-n-play or is there any modification needed? I like to have all my parts and items ready to go with no a no curve ball approach.

Thanks!

 

should be plug and play.... but you should also replace the o-rings on the oil cooler and trans cooler lines into/out of the side tanks (ESR1594). You'll need 4 (plus a couple of extra for when you foul them up)

Depending on the age of your coolant hoses, it would be a good time to replace them too.

 

If you have an original radiator the trans and oil cooler connections screw on directly, if you have an aftermarket radiator an adapter will be needed to connect the trans and oil cooler lines. Check when you purchase the radiator if the adapters are included you will need 4 of them.

 

Another update:
Today after testing I was told that no exhaust gas in the coolant.

I did take a hose to the radiator and there was a massive amount of mud/sand caked on the side facing the viscous fan!

Thanks!