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It does look like it’s pretty straight forward, just waiting for mine to arrive. What was your reference for making sure you wiring from your D1 corresponded correctly with the new D2 CC ECU? Thanks.
Some try to use the existing pig tail so they don’t have to work in the cramped footwell. I changed the pigtail so if this ecu dies I can drop in another.
Some try to use the existing pig tail so they don’t have to work in the cramped footwell. I changed the pigtail so if this ecu dies I can drop in another.
I think I understand what you’re saying. My plan was to remove the D1 pigtail and (working in the footwell) connect the D2 pigtail in-line so I don’t have to use the rotary tool, I feel like it will be a cleaner method. Also, true future swapping of the CC ECU will be easier, good point.
My 95 D1 has working cruise control. Use it all the time on the highway. If my cruise control senses my foot anywhere near the the brake pedal it shuts off. Super sensitive. Now I just can’t get the remote lock/ unlock key fobs to work.
My 95 D1 has working cruise control. Use it all the time on the highway. If my cruise control senses my foot anywhere near the the brake pedal it shuts off. Super sensitive. Now I just can’t get the remote lock/ unlock key fobs to work.
can't seem to figure my situation out,changed vacuum pump [connected direc
ct to battery to see if it works,it does] changed brake pedal switch with new connectors,changed t fitting all hoses are in good shape swapped ecu but that didn't engage,guess i'm left wit the switch on steering wheel but i'm at a loss where to go
can't seem to figure my situation out,changed vacuum pump [connected direc
ct to battery to see if it works,it does] changed brake pedal switch with new connectors,changed t fitting all hoses are in good shape swapped ecu but that didn't engage,guess i'm left wit the switch on steering wheel but i'm at a loss where to go
Have 96 Discovery 1 and also had problems with CC. The ECU is a pain to get to but you can get to it behind the glove box and its easier to pull the plug harness from the ECU and stick probes into the back of the harness. You can remove the harness but there is a wire clip that keeps it from coming off. The ignition on the Disco I has to be on to to the tests as there has to be power on to ECU to test. Looks like a misprint on the directions. When you jumper the vacuum pump and switch, make sure the vacuum is strong enough to completely collapse the throttle dashpot. If it only partial, there is a vacuum leak in the system. Check the lines, but especially the pump itself. RTV the base seals and let it dry. It should do the trick. As far as the ECU, you can pull it (the card) out of the box it sits in and check all the connections. Get a solder iron and re-solder the connections that are shown and circled in the below picture. Scape off the varnish on the backside of the board on the indicated connectors first. Heat up the solder on the backside of the board until it is melted and re-flows. Add extra if needed but be careful not to melt the board. Make sure you ground yourself out before handling card to prevent static discharge from damaging the card. This worked for me and saves you from buying a DII card and splicing. See https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rov...repair.231884/ for additional info as it is a good post as well. As far as the speed sensor, you can remove it from the transfercase and clean it out with electrical cleaner and put a dab of grease on the moving part and RTV it back together and try that. Saves $260 for new one it it does work.
