Dead Discovery
well let's see which one of ten things it could be and get you back on the road.
Does it turn over but slowly or feels weak? Battery still good? Sitting still with engine off you should be able to read about 12.5volts across the batt. terminals. Engine running you should read 13.5 - 14+ if the alternator is doing it's job.
OR it turns over and runs on its own (no starter assistance) and then dies.
To clarify my terms... turn over means the starter is turning the motor only. Runs, Running, etc... the engine is firing on it cylinders due to air, fuel and spark.
Which case are you in?
Does it turn over but slowly or feels weak? Battery still good? Sitting still with engine off you should be able to read about 12.5volts across the batt. terminals. Engine running you should read 13.5 - 14+ if the alternator is doing it's job.
OR it turns over and runs on its own (no starter assistance) and then dies.
To clarify my terms... turn over means the starter is turning the motor only. Runs, Running, etc... the engine is firing on it cylinders due to air, fuel and spark.
Which case are you in?
Oh no, not the terrible 97 Discovery Won't Start Syndrone.
Time to just bite the bullet, put it on craig's list, save yourself lots of time, frustration, throwing money at it. Find something else to drive....... or start methodically going thru it to see what is happening compared to what is supposed to happen.
My 97 intermittent start problem was something so simple. The ground connection on the starter to the frame had corroded to the point that the bolt head was not even recognizable as a bolthead. The quickest simplest fix was to cut the existing cable right at the terminal lug, crimp on a new lug, abraded a new ground location to bare metal on the side of the frame, and attached with a self drilling bolt. However that bolt did completely rust thru and shear recently so I had to repeat the last part of the repait with a new self drilling bolt a few inches away from that ground location.
Of course, it could be a multitude of other things, so start with the simple and cheap things first and work your way thru it.
Time to just bite the bullet, put it on craig's list, save yourself lots of time, frustration, throwing money at it. Find something else to drive....... or start methodically going thru it to see what is happening compared to what is supposed to happen.
My 97 intermittent start problem was something so simple. The ground connection on the starter to the frame had corroded to the point that the bolt head was not even recognizable as a bolthead. The quickest simplest fix was to cut the existing cable right at the terminal lug, crimp on a new lug, abraded a new ground location to bare metal on the side of the frame, and attached with a self drilling bolt. However that bolt did completely rust thru and shear recently so I had to repeat the last part of the repait with a new self drilling bolt a few inches away from that ground location.
Of course, it could be a multitude of other things, so start with the simple and cheap things first and work your way thru it.
for a second there I thought Danny was going to offer you $20 to take that heap off your hands.
What makes you say it might be immobilized? we need details, like is there spark, fuel pressure, air flow... in general what is going on?
What makes you say it might be immobilized? we need details, like is there spark, fuel pressure, air flow... in general what is going on?
I was really tempted to make him a lowball offer, but i would probably go fifty at least, maybe even one hundred dollars cash money............
Did you try doing a search? I believe unlocking the drivers door 3? times with a key OR unlocking the door with the fob turns off the 'immobilizer'. Try that first. And, download the RAVE.


