installed terrafirma coil spring spacers on the disco and now i have terrible death wobble. tires are balanced and i had the front end aligned. it improved some but not a lot. whats the permenant fix for this?

 

Not sure how much lift you did but if it’s 3+ you need to look into caster corrected radius arms, rear cranked arms, and a adjustable Panhard bar to get your Front axle centered.

I added a 4” lift and drove it for a year. It was a struggle at times but I just added all the above and I have a new ride now. Makes a world of difference .

 

Have you done work in the hubs? Bearing pre-load needs to be carefully adjusted on the swivels and wheels. Of course the swivel bearings need to be in good shape. Mine were pretty bad when I bought both my trucks.

My front end got a big improvement when I renewed the bushings on the panhard rod and radius arms. Steering wheel stays nice and steady going over train tracks now.

A bit more toe in might help too, especially if your alignment is at zero.

 

I know this sounds stupid, but check your shocks and make sure the bushings are good and the nuts are tight. It can cause some nasty DW once that axle starts to hop up & down.

 

Swivel pin bearings
Also check/replace the panhard rod bushings.

 

All great suggestions. I have new factory coil springs and shocks ordered. I thought red the bolt on the steering linkage that is in the sticky thread. What swivel bolts are you referring to?

 

Here is the swivel housing.

 

Here is a link to the Rave it tells you all about the preload of the swivel pins.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7d7ugegzzc...anual.pdf?dl=0

 

I think the most obvious issue at the moment is the pan hard bar. I reached under and could wiggle it a lot. Bushings are gone! Got new bushings on the way as well as new coil springs and shocks

 

Glad you found an obvious problem. I hoped the forum helped you know where to look. The panhard rod should not budge at all from hand pressure.

In the picture above from ky606, #2 and 10 show the swivel pins. Under pin 2 is a flat roller bearing and thrust washer. That washer was shot on mine because the previous mechanic just torqued it down too much. Over pin 10 is a small conical bearing that can wear on the bearing surface. Both these can cause the hub to loosen up and wobble. #4 represents the shims that are used to set the bearing preload. The shims are available in multiple thicknesses from Rovers North. Buy a bunch of thin and a few thick so you can mix and match. If the shims are too thick, the hub will be loose and can cause death wobble. Not enough shim thickness can cause the bearings bind and to wear out prematurely, and wobble if it finally falls apart. Pin 2 also fits inside a bearing cup that is lined with a lubricated plastic. If that plastic surface wears, that can also cause wobble.

All these parts are available on line, as well as all the seals needed for re-building the hubs. It's a good weekend project that can be done one hub at a time. A good opportunity to check out the CV joints too and refresh the grease. If this job hasn't ever been done on your truck, you might be surprised how bad the conditions are there. I know I was.