Deglazing/honing
#23
05-05-2016, 03:43 PM
#25
05-16-2016, 06:56 PM
Heard back from the machine shop and everything seemed okay but the more I think the more I am considering getting top hat liners from Turner out of fear that I am going to build an engine to find out there is a crack in the block behind the sleeve....
The machine shop thought that was a whole lot of work and a waste of money for the fact that the car is not worth much. They are probably right on the 2nd point but if I am going to do this, I am wanting to do it right. Came up with $2,000 for installing the liners, $500 for doing a dye check on the block when the liners are out and about $500 for turning the crank 0.010 over so I can put back with 0.010 main and rob bearings.
Seems high to me but wanted to see if anyone had other thoughts on this. What would need to be done:
- bore out original liners to 0.025 smaller than OD of new liners
- counter bore for top hat (aprox 0.210"
- heat block and slide in new liners + either hold in place with tension while it cools or press once cool to seat it
- skim the block to make it flat
- hone the inside of the liners to fit the pistons.
Read another thread of someone doing this that paid like $500 in machining but that was in S. America I think? Either way the block is light and I am happy to send it somewhere to get done if the price makes sense. Ideally on the west coast though....
The machine shop thought that was a whole lot of work and a waste of money for the fact that the car is not worth much. They are probably right on the 2nd point but if I am going to do this, I am wanting to do it right. Came up with $2,000 for installing the liners, $500 for doing a dye check on the block when the liners are out and about $500 for turning the crank 0.010 over so I can put back with 0.010 main and rob bearings.
Seems high to me but wanted to see if anyone had other thoughts on this. What would need to be done:
- bore out original liners to 0.025 smaller than OD of new liners
- counter bore for top hat (aprox 0.210"
- heat block and slide in new liners + either hold in place with tension while it cools or press once cool to seat it
- skim the block to make it flat
- hone the inside of the liners to fit the pistons.
Read another thread of someone doing this that paid like $500 in machining but that was in S. America I think? Either way the block is light and I am happy to send it somewhere to get done if the price makes sense. Ideally on the west coast though....
#28
05-18-2016, 03:38 PM
Don't think there is any risk of a cracked block? I hate the idea of doing an engine rebuild and having it not setup to last 100,000 miles. And I worry the block is cracked behind the liner or could become so in the future. My original thinking is that the piece of mind was worth $600 in parts and $1,000 in labor but can't seem to find anyone willing to do the machining for a reasonable price....
My old engine, I did a HG job that failed and didn't fix the problem... Heads and block pressure tested fine so never actually found the problem. Heads fully rebuild before the HG job. Left me with the only answer that the block was cracked behind the sleeve and couldn't think of an reason why the new engine I got could not have the same problem... Like I said, peace of mind and the side benefit that the new sleeves could be honed to the exact spec of the pistons so it wouldn't be loose from day 1.
My old engine, I did a HG job that failed and didn't fix the problem... Heads and block pressure tested fine so never actually found the problem. Heads fully rebuild before the HG job. Left me with the only answer that the block was cracked behind the sleeve and couldn't think of an reason why the new engine I got could not have the same problem... Like I said, peace of mind and the side benefit that the new sleeves could be honed to the exact spec of the pistons so it wouldn't be loose from day 1.
