Splines are grooves on the end of your axle shafts(both ends) that mesh together with small groove cutouts in your differential and hub flanges. These grooves or splines slide into the cut outs and thats what keeps your axle shaft and outer flanges together as one unit so your tire can spin. The inner splines on the shaft slide into the differential creating the link between your differential gears and the shaft itself. Hence.........Differential spins.....which spins the axle shaft......said axle shaft is linked to the drive flanges or hubs of the vehicle via the splines......your wheels spin. Technically the more splines the stronger to a degree. On my dana 60 chevy 1 ton axle it came with 30 spline outer shafts and I upgraded to 35 spline outer shafts increasing the strength. Thats why Rover went froma 10 spline shafts to a 24 spline shaft. For a quick way to check out what a spline is just find a driveshaft that telescopes in and out(like a d-shaft should do to allow axle movement). One side of the drive shaft will have raised splines and the other mating end will have perfect cut out grooves that the splines slide into WOW, that sounded so much simplier in my head byt looks like word vomit on the screen. Oh yeah BOTH ARB and DETROIT are excellent high quality lockers. I went with a Detroit on my rear axle and an ARB on my front(of my built Suburban). In the front you will want a "selectable" locker, the rear can be "locked" up at all times if you dont mind tire chirp and accelerated tire wear. If you have the coin then just go ARB front and rear. I'm getting cheaper now as I get older and just weld the rear axles now if the axle I have is strong enough(1 tons usually).

 

Oh yeah 16 and rolling in coins, sorta like harry potter I look at my bank account and swim in my gold coins. Just kidding

Wow that does look like vomit on the screen but I read it slowly and I think I understand. Basically the number of grooves on the shafts that connect to the diff. The more the better, I assume for the control and grip, and that ARB and detroit lockers are good.

So now the question is.. can I have both selectable rear and front lockers or is that a waste of money? Benefits? Cons? Sorry for the questions just wondering out of curiosity I won't be getting these for awhile.



PS>
WHat is welding the rear mean?

 

You've got the concept but there are also splines on the "outer" shaft as well(where the shaft and the hub meet on inside of your rim). Yes selectable lockers can be ran front and rear. "Most" people run a fulltime locker in the rear and a selectable locker up front. If you havnt driven a locked vehicle up front its a real bear. The hardcore off-road guys who run their rigs on the trails 99% of the time will just have a full time locker in front because they dont have to operate vehicle on the street. The rich guys who run there rigs on the street equally as much as on the trail either A. leave the front differential "open" or "limited slip" or B. Install a locker that they can engage or disengage....."selectable". This is an awesome option because you keep your on road manners but can flip a switch and lock up the front differential on demand........$$$$$$$$ option. I had an off-road only blazer that i simply welded the differentials front and rear......awesome for mud trails, TOUGH on rock trails, I needed hydro-assist to help me turn the 42" swampers witha locked front end on hard surfaces like rock.

 

Any "selectable" locker will be more expensive than a full time locker. DETROIT fulltime lockers are the most expensive because they are prolly the best one. "Lunchbox" lockers like lockrite etc are cheaper but still good. "Spools" are the cheapest AND hardest on your differential because they are literally 1 piece of solid metal that locks your gears together....no give, no play, no "unlocking" around corners BUT they are STRONG. There are also "Cable" actuated lockers that you pull a cable and manually engage the locker. There are "Electric" lockers that engage the locker via electronics. There are "Air" operated locker like ARB that use air to engage the locker. So many to choose from.

 

And.......I'm spent

 

What are the most reliable? And most realistic to buy and install for a youngin? haha

 

Reason I mentioned the rear Toyota swap is not simply strength (it is a bit stronger) but the fact that you can pick up a used Land Cruiser diff with a factory installed electronic locking differential for $300 to $500. So you're at about $900 parts including the conversion kit, plus you'll need some way to control the locker of course. Those Toyota diffs are easily strong enough for 33 to 35" tires, and the locker costs less than most selectables.

Now if you were going to re-gear the rig anyway, you could find an Toyota diff with 4.11s already installed, and only have to rebuild the front diff with Rover parts to match.

You asked about having selectable lockers front and rear, is it an advantage? Yes, the question is for what. If you are using it extensively off-road for steep climbing, deep mud, and other low-traction situations it will improve your ability to keep moving. If you are driving on dirt 2-tracks on a dry day, you will be fine with zero (just the locking center). Having just one still helps also.

What has been stated that the carrier is a weak point on Rover diffs is true. It can be remedied with a full-carrier replacement locker (ARB, Detroit, or similar) or a different diff.

Any of these conversions would most likely be overkill if you don't understand the need. To understand the need (or lack thereof) go take your Disco off-road in the most extreme spot you would ever want to attempt. You will have to practice on easier stuff assuming you are not already a seasoned off-roader. Go along with another rig, an adequate ****** strap, and a capable driver. Now go over/through the obstacle, whatever it is. If you succeed in getting stuck, you will understand the need. If you don't succeed in getting stuck, there clearly is no need. Either way, report back so we can properly advise on intelligent upgrades.

PS, I off-road fairly often in mine which still has open diffs. I would like lockers and upgraded diffs, but until I can comfortable afford them I'm driving around the obstacles that require them, and putting money aside a bit at a time. Which is a good idea if you own a Rover anyway.

 

Gotcha, closest off road place near me I think is something called red creek off road in southern MS, when summer or spring break comes around I want to head over there haha. But I have to fix the CDL first....

 

Most realistic to buy and install are the lunchbox. They simply replace the spider gears and don't require you to set-up your R&P gears or rebuild the diff. Lock-Right lockers by Powertrax/Richmond gear are a fairly popular lunchbox locker, and reliable, plus rebuild kits are available if they ever need reconditioning. They operate similar to a full Detroit, but do not upgrade the carrier. Most here recommend against lunchbox lockers because they reuse the weak carrier. However, installation is simple, and so is uninstallation.

Just do not use tires any bigger than 31-32" with the stock carrier and I believe you will be fine. And in case you break something, keep money in the bank and/or spare differential parts. When using a single automatic locker (as opposed to selectable) on a full-time 4x4, always put it in the rear diff or it will literally cause wheel lift on turns.

Automatic lockers and manual transmissions don't mix very well, especially on a short-wheelbase vehicle. They will engage/disengage every time you shift, possibly causing unexpected lane changes.

When driving on a sideways grade on dirt/ice/snow, you will probably experience some fishtailing because the rear has so much extra traction.

Since this is your daily driver, if you can't get used to how the Lock-Right or other locker handles on the road, remove it and sell it. Or save it for the day your Disco is no longer a DD.

Note: ARB and Detroit are some of the most reliable full-carier replacements, though an ARB has the weakness of relying on an air system which could fail for a number of reasons. Ox lockers are cable actuated and have an emergency screw which can lock them up if your cable breaks. I don't think you were asking about reliability of full-carrier differentials, but if you were, that's my take.

 

This one opened not too long ago. I think there's another one near Macon, I'm not sure, though.

http://www.barnyardmudboggers.com/ma...tent&task=view