Hello Everyone,

Yes, I am a newbie. I have a few questions and would like to some help and/or advise.

So, the first thing is: I put the 98 Disco into 4 wheel LOW - got 'unstuck', which was good. Drive home, and then put 'shifted' back into normal. But, the 'differential light' is staying on. I have tried many, many times to have it turn off - with no luck. I tried moving the differential **** to the left and to the right - while it's in neutral (along with the main shift also in neutral). Drive around for awhile, turn the steering wheel. Shift both shifts, heard the noise (telling me that the 'differential' (gear box) was in neutral) shifted in back and fourth.

I can NOT get the light to turn off. Also wondering, if I am now if 4 wheel LOW.

I need to tow a trailer; and I know it's not good to tow a trailer in 4 wheel LOW.

Any suggestions, help or comments??

 

Welcome. Your CDL (center differential lock) is stuck in the 'locked' position. You may need to crawl under the vehicle and manually move the shifter cam. The entire shift mech and linkage is exposed and on the underside of the vehicle where it picks up all kinds of road grime and can corrode especially if the system isn't excercised regularly. Search'CDL' and you will have plenty of reading to do.

I doubt you are in low range on the t-case. If you are it should be obvious as you will have a lot of acceleration, gear noise and a top speed of 25 (?). I don't know how big the boat is but getting it up the ramp in low range is acceptable but road travel should be in 'Hi'.

With the CDL locked and on dry roads you risk damaging the transfer case, experiencing 'weird' handling and tire wear will be affected. Good luck!

 

i dont know how big your boat is, but i towed one of my project cars about 2 hours round trip in 4th gear on the highway going 55-60mph without any hiccups - total weight was 6500-7000lb with the car and trailer. this was a 5spd discovery, but still...

we maneuvered around some tight driveways to get to the shop i was taking it to, and never had to use low range even taking off from a stop on a couple of steeper hills.
i dont know how different the ratios on the automatic transmission are though...

 

Yes, I looked under the Rover. Yes, lots of 'grime'. Where is the shifter cam? I want to make sure, I am pulling, moving, swearing at the right thing. And more important, not pulling/moving the wrong thing. What does this look like?

I did search the forum, a few times - searched "CDL" and lots stuff come up. I also searched "Disco I CDL" and lots of stuff come up.

I am in a hurry. Do not have time, to look through all of the postings. And this is my only vehicle. I do not want to do more damage.

 

I had the same problem with my 98 when I bought it. The CDL was stuck in locked when I locked it once. I just squirted a bunch of WD-40 on the linkage and stuff and I came unlocked. When engaging and disengaging the CDL or putting it into high/low, it is 500x easier to move the shift leaver when the vehicle is rolling forwards or backwards a little. Drive the vehicle at about 1 mph, put it in neutral, then lock/unlock the diff or put it in low/high.

 

Do your front wheels lurch when your do a tight turn, SLOWLY, on pavement, if so you are still locked up, if not, your t/case switch is stuck.
By the way, never drive while locked up unless you want to blow a diff.

 

If you click on the link in my signature you will see multiple shots of my linkage all the way from in the vehicle to lots of disassembly and putting it all back together. To gain proper access requires removal of the center console.

There is an excellent exploded view showing all the little parts on the Rovers North drivetrain page.

It could be as simple as the switch is stuck slowing CDL locked whether it is or not, or it could be the linkage itself has issues. There is a triangular looking piece at the bottom of the linkages with a nut in the center. You can put a socket on the nut and rotate that piece (CDL Selector Plate) to manually lock and unlock the center diff.

CCW rotation locks, CW unlocks it. This moves a yoke internal to the transfer case that locks the CDL. When the yoke moves, it depresses a plunger on the switch applying ground and turning on the light.

Just because light is staying on does not mean CDL is actually locked. It probably is, but you should be able to determine by noise level and feel with front tires fighting you on a turn on dry pavement. VERY BAD.

 

This is a close up of the selector plate.
Webshots Rides offers thousands of the best car wallpapers.

 

As far as low range vs high, I agree you do not want to run too long in low , but even in low, these things do have a pretty high top end if the situation arises where you absolutely had to.

Edit: Spike i AGREE, IT WOULD JUST SUCK DOWN A LOT OF GAS AND TURN A LOT OF HIGH RPMS IF YOU DID TRY TO DO OVER 35 TO 40. tHAT COULD ACCELERATE ANY PROBLEMS THAT MAY BE LURKING THERE.

 

There is no harm in running in low range or towing in low range or anything in low range, your top speed will be limited to about 35mph, and your engine will be screaming if you try and go that fast.
The only difference between low range and high range is the gear ratio, that is all.
The t-case is not any weaker, the gears are not weaker...nothing.
Same thing with driving while the CDL is locked, I've driven 200 miles in a blizzard on ice and snow covered roads at speeds upto 65mph with my t-case locked in high range.