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differential light

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  #11  
Old 02-16-2012, 10:11 AM
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Ok. Found some dry pavement (not easy, in MN this time of year). In 4 low, It "lurched" and was had to turn (I was 'fighting' turn), heard motor/gear 'higher' noise (does that make sense).

In 4 high, handles about the same (day to day/regular). NO lurch, no fighting of turn, no motor/gear noise.

So I just need to open the console (from inside of the cab) and move that cam/yoke/pin.

Correct?
 
  #12  
Old 02-16-2012, 10:15 AM
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Oh, forget to mention: drove on highway and was going about 60 mph. Rover handled fine, sounded (gear/motor noise) correctly.

That I should this also.
 
  #13  
Old 02-16-2012, 10:44 AM
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You can access the cam/yoke/pin easily from underneath. I was able to use a screwdriver to gain some leverage and get it to move. Puting the appropriate sized socket or wrench over the nut is the preferred method though.

If you are convinced the CDL is unlocked then you really don't need to worry about the light for now. When I bought mine the light was on and the PO didn't know what it meant (nether did I at that time). But while tightly manuevering the vehicle (parking-type turns) I could feel the front tires 'scrubbing' so I knew something was up. At the time I wasn't sure if this was normal for an AWD vehicle. Now I know it's not and everything works as advertised for me after fooling with the linkages and removing the 4L shift-lock solenoid.
 
  #14  
Old 02-16-2012, 12:31 PM
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Thanks 'hh65flyer' (and to everyone, who has replied to my post).

Well, I am NOT really 'convinced', that the CDL is unlocked and it's just the light being a problem (but, then I am a 'doubt thomas').

I had my roommate get in the Rover and move the differential shifter. I was underneath the truck. I saw NO movement. Then again, I may have be looking at the wrong thing.

I was looking from the driver's side and what I was looking at, was on the side of the gear box. I took some pictures. It looks like some of the other pictures; but it's not from the top view.

Here is where you can see those pictures:

https://landroverforums.com/forum/me...34-am-3604.jpg

https://landroverforums.com/forum/me...34-am-3605.jpg

I posted a few pictures there.

If is the right thing, to adjust, then I will put a socket or screw driver on it. Moving it, which way?
 
  #15  
Old 02-16-2012, 12:53 PM
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If the light is on its locked, if you reverse a bit it will usually turn off, the transfer case is "wound up"
 
  #16  
Old 02-16-2012, 01:00 PM
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The piece you need to manipulate is on the passenger side. If you still have your helper, try again and you should see what is moving. Make sure the helper is moving the shifter left and right, not forward and back.

Look back at post #8 and take a look at the photo. That's what it looks like when viewed from above (through the center console). You will be on the ground and will not see it from this perspective.

I think the cam needs to be rotated towards passenger side but I don't remember. You should be able to figure it our based on where it is and the direction it needs to go to extinguish the light.

Finally, it was also mentioned that having the vehicle moving seems to help. I have also found this to be true with both H/L and CDL shifting. Point is, the light may not go out by just manipulating the piece alone. You may need to take it for a spin (especially backing-up) to get the light out. I was able to get the light to go out by just moving the cam/yoke/pin.

Was the CDL light on when you bought it or only after you used it to get 'unstuck'? If it was out originally that would make you think the indicating system is working.
 

Last edited by hh65flyer; 02-16-2012 at 01:03 PM.
  #17  
Old 02-16-2012, 02:58 PM
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This Illustration shows each and every part, the Rovers North part number, nomenclature and price, and their position in realtionship to one another. Study it.

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/c-3...s-linkage.aspx

You most likely have a linkage problem of some sort. Get yourself some WD40 or PB Blaster and spray it heavily from underneath.

Ensure that you know how it is supposed to work. It is very simple fore and aft is high to N to Lo and to the left (driver's seat in US Models) locks and to the right unlocks.Must be in N in Trannsmission to shift high to low and vice versa.

Lock and unlock is independent of high and low. It cannot be locked in low and unlocked in high merely by shifting fore and aft. Two different linkages with one shifter ****. If it is locked and you merely change from hi to low or low to high, that cannot unlock it.

Lock is toward driver's seat, unlocked is toward passengers seat regardless of if it is in hi in N or in Lo. Should be able to lock and unlock on the fly.

If the bottom selector plate is not rotating it ain't locking and unlocking regardless of what the shift **** does. You may have something broken or disconnected in the linkages like item 31 the link. Item 35 is what must rotate to lock and unlock.

Item 39 is what turns the light on when locked and off when unlocked. It is that simple my friend.
 
  #18  
Old 02-17-2012, 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by hh65flyer



Was the CDL light on when you bought it or only after you used it to get 'unstuck'? If it was out originally that would make you think the indicating system is working.

---------------

When I purchase the Rover, the light was off. I have switched it to LOW a few times before. The light has gone on and off before. This is NOW staying on since I used 4 LOW to get 'unstuck' the other day.

So I am under the impression, everything was working fine/proper. Also the Rover handled properly, did not make any high engine noises (wrong gear, etc). Heck, I have put about 20,000 miles on it (before now), since I bought it. I have towed trailers and etc with this Rover.

Today, I will start taking apart the central console. This 'project' scares me. I need to get this problem solved; so I have some 'piece of mind'.
 
  #19  
Old 02-17-2012, 09:06 AM
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Were you not able to get at the part from below?

Console isn't too bad a job. You will need to drill-out some rivets and of course use new pop-rivets to reassemble or something like a sheetmetal screw. There was a tip somewhere on the forum about getting the console past the e-brake handle (which was the hardest part for me) but I don't remember what it was. I think you can disconnect the cable to the handle then move the handle straight up making it easier to get the console off.
 
  #20  
Old 02-17-2012, 09:16 AM
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19 posts and still no one but me sees that this is a new owner who clearly doesn't know how the transfer case works, and everyone jumps to how to rip it apart rather than explaining how to work it. The owners manual states that if the light stays on after to disengage the cdl to reverse the truck a short ways to unwind the t case.
 


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