Disco I VS Disco II Timing chain cover
#1
Disco I VS Disco II Timing chain cover
If one was in the market for a new timing chain cover for their 97 Disco, what would be their options? I see Disco II timing chain covers all over the place but the earlier ones are non existent. I understand (mostly) that the earlier is GEMS and the later is Bosch but can a disco II cover from a 4.0 be used on my engine? Am I SOL?
#2
#3
I just did my oil pump and timing chain/gears a couple days ago. I was impressed with the condition of the cover for having 185k miles on it but it was scored a bit. Unfortunately being new to this game I got a Britpart oil pump. I fear that it was oval or something because it is making a terrible noise like marbles rattling in a mason jar full of water. There was no loss of pressure and the oil light never came on but I am taking apart everything again right now to see what is going on. I fear that the cover may now be ruined because of the Britpart oil pump and thus why I need to find one of those covers.
#4
So I got it all apart and found very little. I found very little bits of crud in my oil pan as pictured below. I believe that crud is tarnish from the inside of the cover.
I better get to cleaning that up like I should have to begin with.
And the cover plate didn't look that bad before I put everything together so that stuff must have got in there and grinded it a bit. The new outer gear does not spin as easy as the old one. It really does feel like its out of round or "catching" as it spins. I guess I will have to order a new gear set, clean everything up and hope for the best.
I better get to cleaning that up like I should have to begin with.
And the cover plate didn't look that bad before I put everything together so that stuff must have got in there and grinded it a bit. The new outer gear does not spin as easy as the old one. It really does feel like its out of round or "catching" as it spins. I guess I will have to order a new gear set, clean everything up and hope for the best.
Last edited by Crunkgringo; 12-12-2017 at 11:20 PM.
#5
Just a headsup, before you install the oil pan REMEMBER to remove and clean the Oil Pickup Screen & Tube (all one piece). You really need to remove the Pickup to clean it properly...and you will be glad you did.
Some decent pics here > https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...oil-pan-41095/
Some decent pics here > https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...oil-pan-41095/
Last edited by OverRover; 12-13-2017 at 07:51 AM.
#6
Just a headsup, before you install the oil pan REMEMBER to remove and clean the Oil Pickup Screen & Tube (all one piece). You really need to remove the Pickup to clean it properly...and you will be glad you did.
Some decent pics here > https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...oil-pan-41095/
Some decent pics here > https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...oil-pan-41095/
#7
Hello? How the crud got in the pan is because the the front cover is open to the oil pan. Past the oil filter is not a player, never went through it. It does get sucked up through the pickup though. Also check your valve covers/heads/valve-train cuz if the front cover is that crusted so is they. Rover engines especially when let go are awesome for creating coal. As far as replacing shells your probably going to find that your one size over stock..... .010. If your going down to bare block have the block hot tanked twice, it's your dime and your time. The oil galleys are going to be occluded in the block. Line boring is also a good idea, cam and crank and they might not suggest it with that many miles since it probably has a decent twist to it by now. New shells done right are done this way. If your halving it then polish up what you can to remove scars.
#8
Hello? How the crud got in the pan is because the the front cover is open to the oil pan. Past the oil filter is not a player, never went through it. It does get sucked up through the pickup though. Also check your valve covers/heads/valve-train cuz if the front cover is that crusted so is they. Rover engines especially when let go are awesome for creating coal. As far as replacing shells your probably going to find that your one size over stock..... .010. If your going down to bare block have the block hot tanked twice, it's your dime and your time. The oil galleys are going to be occluded in the block. Line boring is also a good idea, cam and crank and they might not suggest it with that many miles since it probably has a decent twist to it by now. New shells done right are done this way. If your halving it then polish up what you can to remove scars.
But is anyone going to chime in on the difference in timing covers for gems VS Bosch? Any one?
#9
The following users liked this post:
Crunkgringo (12-19-2017)
#10
There is a change in the Bosch and that is where the oil pickup is located, direct off the machined face plate of the oil pump, it's cast into the plate. The GEMS pickup is located on the block so the oil suction side is different between the two. The actual covers are identical except for that one change. Bummah. It's possible to grab a pickup off a Bosch and block off the pickup port on the GEMS block I suppose but..... I don't know anyone who's tried it.
The following users liked this post:
Crunkgringo (12-19-2017)