Discovery I Talk about the Land Rover Discovery Series I within.

Disco I VS Disco II Timing chain cover

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Dec 12, 2017 | 10:11 AM
  #1  
Crunkgringo's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Mudding
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 139
Likes: 13
From: Sierra Nevada, CA
Default Disco I VS Disco II Timing chain cover

If one was in the market for a new timing chain cover for their 97 Disco, what would be their options? I see Disco II timing chain covers all over the place but the earlier ones are non existent. I understand (mostly) that the earlier is GEMS and the later is Bosch but can a disco II cover from a 4.0 be used on my engine? Am I SOL?
 
Reply
Old Dec 12, 2017 | 07:48 PM
  #2  
ROB99DISCOSD's Avatar
Rock Crawling
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 258
Likes: 16
Default

I’m curious to see what others respond. I had never even noticed to cover does appear unavailable. Gonna do my tc soon too along with the oil pump while I’m there. Had anticipated just getting a new cover, but....
 
Reply
Old Dec 12, 2017 | 09:30 PM
  #3  
Crunkgringo's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Mudding
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 139
Likes: 13
From: Sierra Nevada, CA
Default

I just did my oil pump and timing chain/gears a couple days ago. I was impressed with the condition of the cover for having 185k miles on it but it was scored a bit. Unfortunately being new to this game I got a Britpart oil pump. I fear that it was oval or something because it is making a terrible noise like marbles rattling in a mason jar full of water. There was no loss of pressure and the oil light never came on but I am taking apart everything again right now to see what is going on. I fear that the cover may now be ruined because of the Britpart oil pump and thus why I need to find one of those covers.
 
Reply
Old Dec 12, 2017 | 11:13 PM
  #4  
Crunkgringo's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Mudding
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 139
Likes: 13
From: Sierra Nevada, CA
Default

So I got it all apart and found very little. I found very little bits of crud in my oil pan as pictured below. I believe that crud is tarnish from the inside of the cover.

I better get to cleaning that up like I should have to begin with.


And the cover plate didn't look that bad before I put everything together so that stuff must have got in there and grinded it a bit. The new outer gear does not spin as easy as the old one. It really does feel like its out of round or "catching" as it spins. I guess I will have to order a new gear set, clean everything up and hope for the best.
 

Last edited by Crunkgringo; Dec 12, 2017 at 11:20 PM.
Reply
Old Dec 13, 2017 | 07:46 AM
  #5  
OverRover's Avatar
TReK
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 2,514
Likes: 656
Default

Just a headsup, before you install the oil pan REMEMBER to remove and clean the Oil Pickup Screen & Tube (all one piece). You really need to remove the Pickup to clean it properly...and you will be glad you did.

Some decent pics here > https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...oil-pan-41095/
 

Last edited by OverRover; Dec 13, 2017 at 07:51 AM.
Reply
Old Dec 13, 2017 | 01:44 PM
  #6  
Crunkgringo's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Mudding
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 139
Likes: 13
From: Sierra Nevada, CA
Default

Originally Posted by OverRover
Just a headsup, before you install the oil pan REMEMBER to remove and clean the Oil Pickup Screen & Tube (all one piece). You really need to remove the Pickup to clean it properly...and you will be glad you did.

Some decent pics here > https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...oil-pan-41095/
Will do, I am also going to clean off all that sludge from the timing chain cover and do the main and rod bearings since I have it all apart again. I just can't figure out how that stuff got past the oil filter. I must have did it somehow I am just uncertain how and hope that its not in my main/rod bearings.
 
Reply
Old Dec 16, 2017 | 08:22 AM
  #7  
ihscouts's Avatar
Camel Trophy
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,245
Likes: 402
From: Traverse City MI
Default

Hello? How the crud got in the pan is because the the front cover is open to the oil pan. Past the oil filter is not a player, never went through it. It does get sucked up through the pickup though. Also check your valve covers/heads/valve-train cuz if the front cover is that crusted so is they. Rover engines especially when let go are awesome for creating coal. As far as replacing shells your probably going to find that your one size over stock..... .010. If your going down to bare block have the block hot tanked twice, it's your dime and your time. The oil galleys are going to be occluded in the block. Line boring is also a good idea, cam and crank and they might not suggest it with that many miles since it probably has a decent twist to it by now. New shells done right are done this way. If your halving it then polish up what you can to remove scars.
 
Reply
Old Dec 18, 2017 | 01:30 PM
  #8  
Crunkgringo's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Mudding
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 139
Likes: 13
From: Sierra Nevada, CA
Default

Originally Posted by ihscouts
Hello? How the crud got in the pan is because the the front cover is open to the oil pan. Past the oil filter is not a player, never went through it. It does get sucked up through the pickup though. Also check your valve covers/heads/valve-train cuz if the front cover is that crusted so is they. Rover engines especially when let go are awesome for creating coal. As far as replacing shells your probably going to find that your one size over stock..... .010. If your going down to bare block have the block hot tanked twice, it's your dime and your time. The oil galleys are going to be occluded in the block. Line boring is also a good idea, cam and crank and they might not suggest it with that many miles since it probably has a decent twist to it by now. New shells done right are done this way. If your halving it then polish up what you can to remove scars.
So I already did the main and rod bearings and was able to do the top bearings on the main as well. I understand that tarnish is going to be standard for these engines but pieces big enough to make noise in my pump has only happened after I put that new pump in there. Next fall/summer I will be doing a complete removal and overhaul. I will worry about mic'ing the journals then. I will post pics of what my bearings looked like when they were removed, it was bad... all down to copper on crank and rod. I just wanted to bump up my oil pressure long enough to make it another year. The oil light was staying on for 6-10 seconds at start up. I also got a new pump that is not branded Britpart because that one did turn out to be out of round compared to the new EAC pump gears I just got. Live and learn.

But is anyone going to chime in on the difference in timing covers for gems VS Bosch? Any one?
 
Reply
Old Dec 18, 2017 | 05:17 PM
  #9  
robertf's Avatar
Rock Crawling
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 376
Likes: 93
Default

Depth is different. Water pump and pulleys are closer to the block on a bosch
 
Reply
Old Dec 18, 2017 | 06:25 PM
  #10  
ihscouts's Avatar
Camel Trophy
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 4,245
Likes: 402
From: Traverse City MI
Default

There is a change in the Bosch and that is where the oil pickup is located, direct off the machined face plate of the oil pump, it's cast into the plate. The GEMS pickup is located on the block so the oil suction side is different between the two. The actual covers are identical except for that one change. Bummah. It's possible to grab a pickup off a Bosch and block off the pickup port on the GEMS block I suppose but..... I don't know anyone who's tried it.
 
Reply



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:36 AM.