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Disco1 engine replacement

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Old Jun 5, 2019 | 10:30 AM
  #11  
hrhoward's Avatar
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Lots of miles on it. If I would of had more time when mine was out, I would of considered the 4.6 crank and such. Fixing leaks is relatively easy once it's out. However, don't forget to replace one of the seals (front main) and remember about it after you put it back in.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2019 | 03:46 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by whiskeynipple0088
then you dont need a engine,.... just TLC - likely a upper engine gasket refresh would make a huge difference.
these are notorious for valve cover leaks - like really bad leaks
also power steering line cracks and leaks
also old cracked oil and trans cooler lines leak

the reason I mention this....... is that all of these parts would get replaced on a proper engine replacement so why not just do it to what you have - if compression is good you dont need a new engine just some new lines and gaskets
Thanks for the good advice. I’ve already replaced the steering box and lines as they were leaking real bad. I’ll start with the upper engine gaskets and the tranny cooler lines and see where that takes me.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2020 | 10:27 AM
  #13  
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Just a quick update since my last entry folks. I’ve replaced all engine and transmission cooler lines and the valve cover gaskets. The main seal has also been replaced. The leakage has been drastically reduced. As a reminder, I had previously replaced the steering box and the lines. The 256k daily driver still has full compression in all cylinders.

The only remaining leak is at the seal between the engine and the transmission. I’ve been told off until the engine does need to be rebuilt/replaced. My mechanic is recommending an additive in the high mileage oil I use to stop the leak. I’m typically adverse to any kind of additives for oil leak mitigation and would appreciate your input.

Ain’t she a beauty?


 

Last edited by SFdisco; Dec 5, 2020 at 09:55 PM. Reason: Security
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Old Dec 5, 2020 | 04:43 PM
  #14  
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Great looking D1!
 
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Old Dec 5, 2020 | 09:58 PM
  #15  
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Thank you. I am about to mount the factory brushguard. It has a few paint chips. Any thoughts on how to restore the plastic coating that’s on it?
 
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Old Dec 6, 2020 | 10:03 AM
  #16  
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I sprayed my brushguard with Plasti-Dip. It looked great, but 4 years later it finally succumbed to the elements and rusted through from the inside. The passenger side mount broke off completely. Hopefully yours is in better shape and will hold up.

It took me a while to get used to seeing old Indy without it.
 

Last edited by jvarnadoe; Feb 4, 2021 at 02:56 PM.
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Old Dec 6, 2020 | 10:56 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by SFdisco
Thank you. I am about to mount the factory brushguard. It has a few paint chips. Any thoughts on how to restore the plastic coating that’s on it?
I removed my factory brush guard after finding out they are actually a damage multiplier. Any bump in the front and you have a ding on your bonnet or at least a broken headlamp washer. They are simply not very robust and unless you actually need a brush guard because you drive through a lot of brush, or perhaps need a limb riser, I would pass on re-installing it.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2020 | 11:49 AM
  #18  
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find a lower mileage used engine at a breakers (my guess would be around $600) and drop that in - you can do new head gaskets and few other maint. bits while it is out easily - keep it going for another 100K
 
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Old Dec 6, 2020 | 02:47 PM
  #19  
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Disco 1s are becoming a rarity in junk yards. I’m seeing very few junkers in my neck of the woods in NorCal. Fortunately, the current engine (knock on wood) has been going strong partially because I take very good care of the car. When time comes, I will most likely replace the engine with a new or rebuild if I can get it done at a reasonable price. I am a firm believer that D1s are destined to become a classic. Watch their price rise in the next 10 years.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2020 | 02:52 PM
  #20  
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Thanks for the advice. I’ve heard that from multiple sources over the years. I wonder if there’s anything that can be done to stiffen up the guard or it’s connection to the chassis. I wonder if a bull bar is less of concern.
 
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