Thanks again, Rover. Confirm you have a Gasoline V8i engine and not the TDi 300? There is no "spider" behind the radio in my 1995 Discovery 1 V81

I have no problem with the starter cranking the engine, like yours it cranks every time. The (door) locks work fine too. There just is no spark from the coil.

 

There again was an 02 (zero two)(not o2) on the diagnostic display - it appears with a relay click from the relays at front passenger footwell, and disappears a few seconds after ignition is turned off, again with the click from the relay.

Stil no spark whatsoever from the ignition coil HT line onto the engine.

 

Check your distributor there are weights down in it if they have come off you will get nothing spark etc. If you have replaced the rotor button and did not hold the washer/ring down when you pulled the rotor button off the you could of shifted every thing in side of the distributor causing it not to fire or give spark. Also there is a little washer/grommet at the below the weights that holds all of the internals up if it has rotted of slipped or broke it will also cause the no spark issue had both of these happed with me not a fun day. The 02 means no computer com talk. It should go away if not then you have ecu issues. Turn the disco on you will see the 02 turn the key off wait for the 02 to go away then turn it back on and it should be clear that will at least tell you the ecu is good. Also your pick up on the coil maybe bad has it been relocated or replaced?


No comment on the spider not starting that again. But I have bypassed both alarm systems before.

 

"The 02 means no computer com talk. It should go away if not then you have ecu issues. Turn the disco on you will see the 02 turn the key off wait for the 02 to go away then turn it back on and it should be clear that will at least tell you the ecu is good. Also your pick up on the coil maybe bad has it been relocated or replaced?"

1. You'll see in the history I have explained that everything in the ignition system has been replaced, brand new coil, and even a second ignition amplifier unit (this time with a proper Lucas OEM unit). The distributor has no issues. The start problems hage been intermittent and then went away with each new replacement, but now it has suddenly become permanent.

2. Could it be that if I get a proper remote control (called a FOB here and I still do no know what F.O.B. means - have learned that ECU and ECM is the same thing, electronic control module or unit, but FOB has not been explained to me yet) will be required to reset (if that is the proper word) the alarm system?

3. Also, am I corrrect when I assume that the ECU under the passenger seat is NOT the alarm system ECU but controls the engine? The alarm system ECU is in the front passenger footwell on the sidewall where all the relays are. (also where the electric window ECU is.

4. The 02 indication is only sporadic, and mosty after I had removed and replaced the battery negative lead. Previously that had reset the alarm system and I could start but it does not happen anymore. During and after cranking the diagnostic display is completely blank.

5. "Also your pick up on the coil maybe bad has it been relocated or replaced?" I am unsure what the "pick up on the coil" refers to, as there is nothing on the coil except the low tension + en - connections. The ignition amplifier module is on a bracket next to the radiator, between the radiator and the coil.

6. It also seems that there is no alarm anymore as there is no way I can get it to sound. In the history you'll see that the first time I even new that the vehicle in fact had an alarm was also when it immediately afterwards failed to start. I unlocked the passenger front door with the key as I had many times and suddenly there was an alarm and since then I could not start. Before I had so many times unlocked that door with the key and there never was any alarm.

7. I am now going to remove that whole facia assembly (bezel?) and look for that "spider". If I can find that and isolate the alam ECU I belive the vehicle may start.

8. Somewhere I have read that someone mentioned that the immobilizer prevents cranking. I have had good cranking always - all the starting issues from the beginning was always NO SPARK, until I replaced the ignition amplifier unit and then it was perfect for a week and died; then I replaced the coil and a new amplifier unit and it was perfect for a week. Now again there is no spark from the coil.

9. Lastly, you said: "The 02 means no computer com talk. It should go away if not then you have ecu issues." I assume you refer to the ECU under the passenger seat and not the alarm ECU?

Thank you very much for you kind assistance.

A.

 

Yes the ecu under the seat is where the 02 is shown on the display. If you have a 95 as I do then you have a 1 button fob (remote) the fob is the alarm unlock and lock button you push that is with your key should be black and square. Here is a thought if you locked or unlocked the door with key and the alarm your alarm was active by the fob that will trip the immobilizer and cause it keep the truck from cranking. Try unlocking the door 3 times unlock unlock unlock do not turn it to lock. That will work some times. I have read the past post I was just throwing out stuff to double check and your pick up (ignition amplifier) has been moved if it is next to the radiator beside the coil. If you lock the door with the fob and unlock with the key it can trip the immobilizer.

 

Thanks Rover. I did not get a remote when I bought the vehicle two months ago - and it seems my problem may persist without that? Thanks for confirming that it has to be a one-button controller and not two.

My truck is cranking all right - absolutely no problem there. Just no spark when it is cranked by the starter.

I suddenly remembered something which may be relevant: MANY times I had locked the vehicle by key, checked the central locking working correctly, and the following morning I would find the doors unlocked.'

 

Ok can you crank it by putting a screw drive between the starter solenoid on the back of the starter if so then the alarm has been set to immobilized the truck I have had to start a few that way when it was. There are two kind on kills the fuel pump and the other kills the spark. Try the unlocking three times to deactivate the system. Be careful starting the truck with a screw driver it will shock the **** out of you if you do it wrong. Also check your positive cable I had one where it had broken down over time and would cause a no spark \ start problem

 

Thanks for your continual interest and advice, Rover.

Just to reconfirm: The key cranks her quite fast, just no spark at the coil HT when held close to the engine block.

1. Right in the beginning of the starting problems she would not spark by using the starter, but even the slightest downhill of tug would start her immediately. The battery is perfect - in fact I have two at hand.
2. The fuel pump: After a start failure a week ago I removed and tested it directly from an outside battery and it squirts a two feet jet of alcohol. On putting it back the engine started immediately. After a week she again failed to start. Tugging it started her immediately.
3. Then I replaced the coil and two weeks old ignition amplifier, and starting was immediate. After two weeks the start failure returned.
4. Then I unplugged the input lead from the impact switch and bridged the terminals with copper wire. She started immediately. I put the plug back into the impact (inertia) switch and she started immediately.
5. Then ten days ago when I unlocked with the key from the driver's door the alarm started hooting. I locked and unlocked with the key and at the third cycle the alarm stopped. She failed to start.
6. I removed the battery negative lead, turned the key to "ON" (second stop) waited a few minutes and replaced the battery negative with the ignition turned on. Heard some relays clicking. Tightened the negative lead ans she started immediately and ran perfectly for about 100 miles in three days with many stops and starts - short stops, long stops, hot starts, cold starts - all perfect.
7. On arriving home from that trip she stood for 3 hours with no locking of the doors. I needed to go to a store and she failed to start. No spark, not even towing helped this time.

A. I am removing all the Low Tension wiring now, as well as the distributor, coil and ignition amplifier unit to check for a break somewhere and will also check the insides of the distributor.


B. I have still an un-answered question. I see on a parts list an "Ignition Relay". Logic tells me that this would be the actual switch that sits between the key barrel and the coil, and if this relay does not close, the will be no current going to the coil and therefor no spark?


C. So my thinking is that either this is the culprit (I just can not find anyone to tell me where this relay sits), or the immoblizer in the alarm ECU, or the green alarm relay (but I am unsure of the function of that green connector and relay in the front passenger footwell.


Going to remove the "bezel" now and find that elusive "spider" if there is one, and once all the ignition stuff have been put back I'll try bridging the starter solenoid and the starter casing.

 

The relay/pickup is between the coil and radiator if it has been moved from beside the distributor. Amplifier Module Relocation Kit (STC1856 Same Fit As Part # STC1856 ) - Land Rover ignition from Atlantic British called many different things do you have a green box in the foot well behind the kick plate on the passenger side well?

 

No green box, just a green relay of about 1 inch cube size plugged into a green multiconnector.

No "spider" behind the radio -just a wire loom and one connector for an unnamed little red LED below the radio. See the photo below